After Victorian it is essential to plunge in Regency era the master of sauces as well pastries and master of Art
Mr Carême Marie-Antoine (also know as Antonin)
< French Cook and Pastry-cook:
Born: Paris, 1783
Died: Paris 1833
Books: “le Patissier Pitoresque”, 1815, “Le Maitre d’Hotel Français”,
1922, “Le Patissier Royal Parisien”,
1825,“l’Art de la Cuisine au 19th Century”, 1933, “Le Cuisinier Parisien”
Credits: “Chartreuses”, many desserts on Piedestal, 289 sauces & soups, many
elaborated Garnishes, Meringues, shaped Vol au vent. “ les Oeuf pochéCarême” & Many others.
Born in a poor family, the young Carême was put out on the street at the age of ten,
which was the norms during this era, with the background of a large Family.
Mr Carême learned the rudiment of cookery in a low class restaurant “the Maine gate”,
He became Apprentice at the age of 16 at “Bailly” rue Vivienne.
One of the best pastry cooked in Paris was amazed,
by the driving force and the ability of the young man, Mr Bailly encourage him.
Mr Carême started to develop his artistic art by going to the National library to copy architectural details and drawings,
to reproduce and put in display to be admire, at Mr Bailly’s establishment.
Mr Talleyrand < an influential politician and a great Gastronome in Paris, started to notice the young man.
He offered to take Mr Carême into his service, under Mr Avis.
Mr Carême stayed on for 12 years at Mr Talley and service, using his skill as a diplomatic tool,
in the turmoil of the French History. He went on to serve dignitary such as the Prince Regent of England & the future King George the 4th of England.
He was even called to the court of the tsar Alexander the 1st, where he learned some Russian dishes, and started to introduce them to the French cuisine,
dishes such as “Koulibiac” & “Borsh”.
He went on to services such as the Viennese court, the British Embassy, Princess Bagration, Lord Steward & with the Baron Rothschild.
He died totally burnt out by his genius, in addition of the charcoal of the roasting-spit. He brought the then food fashion to its heights;
Mr Talleyrand ounce said about him “He taught us to eat”.
Mr Carême is one of the founders of “La Grand Cuisine” with some of our present day treats.
He is renowned as to be part of the French national prestige.
He developed many techniques still employed these days, as they have managed to stay alive since their creation,
he changed the shapes of the sugar pans, shape of the hats etc.…
his talents in the Culinary Art, has never been contested and will never be.
Even I have tried to reproduce some its drawings or studies, as I wanted to experience and see the intricacy of such work.
Me a modern man of the 20th century it would have taken me a lot of times of practice for achieving what he was doing.
I always practiced and drew plates trying to place details on tem.
And it is imperative that a chef or cook of standard do those movements
Here are few recipes translated.
Bread sauce
“Chop 1 clove of garlic. 1 shallots and some parsley, put them in a saucepan with ½ glass of white wine,
boil down, then mix in 2 tablespoons (3 Tablespoons) very fine breadcrumbs a little butter,
a pinch of mignonette and grated nutmeg, 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoon) of a good consommé
with 2 to 3 tablespoon of light veal stock. Boil down by half and add the juice of a lemon”
Curry sauce a l’Indienne (for poached eggs or shelled boiled eggs poultry & mutton))
Put into a saucepan a few slices of lean ham, 1 chopped onion, a bouquet garni, 2 punnets of mushrooms chopped,
3 cloves, a good pinch of pimento, a pinch of cayenne pepper and a little mace.
Add 2 to 3 tablespoons chicken consomme. Simmer over low heat, strain, and remove all grease.
When it is somewhat boiled down mix in some Allemande sauce. Add a small infusion of saffron so as tp colour it yellow,
then strain through a cloth. Before serving, put in a little butter and 3 punnets of small mushrooms.”
“Small green gherkins cut to look like olives can be added to this sauce.”
Bavarian Cream au Parfait d’Amour
“Shred half the peel of a lemon very finely, boil 2 cup of milk, add the shredded lemon,
6 crushed cloves and 225gr (8oz, 1 cup) caster sugar, leave to infuse for an hour, and strain through a muslin cloth into a basin,
add 25gr (1 oz) slightly warm and clarified issing glass, and a few drop of Cochineal essence.
Put the basin into a bowl of ice as soon as the mixture begins to set, fold in whipped cream.
Bavarian Cream aux Roses
“Stir the petals off about 30 picked roses, put them with a pinch of cochineal grains, into 225gr (8oz, 1 cup) clarified boiling sugar syrup.
Cover, strain the mixture through muslin cloth into a bowl. When it begins to set fold in whipped cream”
Blanc mange
“Bitter almonds. Leave them to soak in a bowl of cold water, which renders them singularly white.
Drain on a sieve and rub them together in a napkin. Pound in a mortar, moisten them, little by little, with ½ tablespoon of water at a time,
to prevent them turning into oil. When they are pounded into a fine paste, put into a bowl and dilute with 5 glass of filter water,
added a little at a time, spread a clean napkin over a dish pour the Blancmange into it and, with 2 people twisting the napkin,
press out all the almond milk. Put in 350gr (12oz, 1 ½ cup) granulated sugar and rub through a fine sieve.
Strain through a napkin once again, and add 30gr (1oz, 4 grains) clarified isinglass a little warmer than tepid.
Blend with the blancmange. Pour into a mould and place in a container with crushed ice.
“To make Rum Blancmange, add ½ glass of Rum to the mixture describe above.
To make a Maraschino Blancmange add ½ a glass”
“To serve this sweet in small pots, prepared two thirds of the quantity given in the precedent recipe.
You will however, need a little less isinglass, as blancmange served in small pots has to be more delicate than when it is to be turned out.
Blancmange can be flavoured with lemon, vanilla, coffee, chocolate, pistachio nuts, hazelnuts & Whipped cream can also be incorporated.”
