Which stones or "system" for beginner to sharpen Hattori HD and Kagayaki VG-10? - Page 2

 

I think this is part of why I (and likely many others as well) have found your posts and comments helpful.

 

It is really just a practical approach, and though I know appearance has a place in everyone's decision process for most it seems it is not topping the needs list.

 

I enjoy quality, obscurity, and uniqueness, and even nostalgia as well, and have enjoyed the many examples I have seen on the various forums etc, but I expect there to be no better chance of seeing a $6000 knife in my kitchen than an original Picasso on the wall in my living room :D

 

Beautiful yes, but practical?

Be patient. Use the "burr method" described by Chad Ward in the e-Gullet FAQ. For your first few outings use the Magic Marker Trick.

If you're using new stones, they need to be lapped and beveled using. Quite a few new stones won't work at all without a preliminary lapping to loosen the surface. Beveling is also very important -- but for a different reason. Many stones are very weak at the edges and corners and will tend to break, crumble or gouge easily without preliminary beveling.

FWIW, beveling should be an every-time part of your flattening.

I forget if you're the one using DMT diamond stones or not. Be aware that they wear out quickly, and your new knife might have arrived one sharpening too late. The DMTs with the holes are much better for shorter blades than for kitchen knives; and other than for flattening other stones, and for fast, coarse work, diamond stones aren't the best choice for most sharpeners anyway.

BDL

 

I do not remember my first attempts at sharpening too clearly as it was just too long ago, but I do know that I had my share of problems, reducing sharpness, and just not getting the results I had expected.

 

Then after getting my first couple waterstones it sort of was new all over again as they are very different than any of the old norton combo stones or wet dry sand paper I had used in the past.

 

Trust me on this, your not alone with finding a little frustration :)

 

Few questions, and thoughts.

 

Which stones are you using now?

 

I ask because you really want to be using the 1000 at first because the 400 is just too aggressive for what your doing, and the 5000 is just an open opportunity to mess up what you did on the 1000 until you really get your skills set etc. I am one of those who would have to mess with that 5000, and have messed up a good edge trying to polish it in the past lol. It is a learning curve etc.

 

Chasing the burr is a fine way to get to your desired result, but you have to be able to feel the burr properly, and across the entire length of the blade. I have to admit it was a lot easier finding the burr on my old knives as opposed to my J knives as it was larger and more obvious. So take your time, double check, check again, and oh be careful because a fine burr or wire can be extremely sharp too.

 

Are you sectioning the blade (sharpening one small part at a time that is similar in width to the stone) or sharpening the whole length at once in a sweeping motion? I believe sectioning is a better choice for new sharpeners as it allows one to have more control over the angle and like most things it also allows to make things a bit less complicated by breaking it down into small steps. I know both ways have their advantages, and I do use both myself too but sectioning just seems to make things easier at first.

 

A thought on that magic marker is to understand the idea is to show you what the relationship between the knifes edge angle and the one your holding when sharpening. If you are able to hold the same angle most all of the time then the amount of strokes before you check for what has been removed is not such a big deal, but if your not sure or are not holding it steady etc then try to make one forward and one reverse or draw stroke and then check it. This should give you a more accurate reading on just where and at what angle your removing the metal.

 

Also try to view some of the vids again as it should help to reinforce what you learned previously while also making more sense the more you learn etc.

 

And do not worry you will get the hang of it :)

 

 

 

I'll re-emphasize Lenny's point that you must check what you're doing really often. At the beginning REALLY often, magic marker or no. But know what you're looking for. You can remove all the magic marker with really inconsistent angles and lots of wobble if you just don't bother checking till it's gone!

If you're going to use a DMT dla-sharp flattening Stone, don't bother with anything other than than the 120#, 8X3 XXC which Lee Valley sells for $74. If you're thinking of a less aggressive plate, or something smaller, you might as well stick with drywall screen.

BDL
Edited by boar_d_laze - 2/10/12 at 8:21am