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Help me fix my old petty!

post #1 of 5
Thread Starter 

I have an old moritaka petty that has an issue with blade geometry I'd like to fix. I think that I damaged the knife while learning how to properly use the edgepro a year or so ago and would like to try to fix the situation now, but Im still relatively new to sharpening and dont know the best method to fix my mistake.



The problem is that the cutting edge is not completely straight, when the knife is placed cutting edge down on the board a small amount of light can be seen coming from underneath the middle of the blade meaning the entire edge is not able to contact the board. What is the best method for everning out the edge with my edgepro? Is there a trick to it or do I just have to eyeball it and hope for the best as I grind away at the two ends?


post #2 of 5

I wonder if that is just the famous Moritaka overgrind showing itself?  Pics?

post #3 of 5
Thread Starter 

Thanks for the reply chinacats!   I am aware of the moritaka issue, however when I was completely knew to and learning about knife care a year or so ago I put the knife on the edgepro with a 120 grit stone and think I did the damage myself.  




I posted this question on another forum I frequent and was pointed in the right direction.  I just put the blade on the stone at 90 degrees, made a few passes (the problem was not severe so I didnt have to remove much metal), then redid the edge with the edgepro on my new choseras.     I am happy to report that the knife is now perfroming better than it did out of the box.



If the problem resurfaces It means its a moritaka issue, but I think its fine now and was indeed my error.


Thanks for the replies and PM's I received!




post #4 of 5

Good deal, hope the issue is resolved...


Curious though as I thought the reason to use the Edge Pro was that there was essentially no learning curve (or no way to mess up an edge)...guess just like learning to freehand that mistakes can be made...



Edited by chinacats - 4/28/12 at 9:25am
post #5 of 5

Yesterday I fixed this same problem on my chef knife in the exact same way. I guess by either freehand or with a clamp system it's natural to abrade less material right at the heel, because the heel (and tip) doesn't get a "double pass" via overlapping sections the way every other bit of the blade does. I wonder, is simply focusing a little longer on the heel than the rest of the blade for each session the appropriate preventative measure for this problem?

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