It's a bit overwritten in places, but an interesting profile that made it clearer to me what the _Cook's Illustrated_ niche is. This was interesting:
"At the core of C.I.’s M.O. are two intrepid observations Kimball has made about the innermost psychology of home cooks. Namely that they 1) are haunted by a fear of humiliation, and 2) will not follow a recipe to the letter, believing that slavishly following directions is an implicit admission that you cannot cook."
I've always found CI geekishly fascinating because it pursues the kind of questions I ask when I cook, but at the same time totally insufferable: smug and cheerless. And I *am* interested in pleasure, which Kimball disdains.