I've sharpened a lot of UX10s... or more accurately, I've sharpened a few UX-10s but sharpened a couple of them many times.
Misono says they profile the UX 10 at 10* - 12* on the right side, 20* on the left side, with a 70/30 asymmetry. I say "says" because some of that stuff can't really be measured accurately; because there's a fair bit of variance from knife to knife; and because maintaining the factory profile is almost impossible using a typical home bench stones or tool and jig setup. It's also not particularly desirable either.
I don't know about how convex the factory edge is, but I wouldn't worry about it one way or the other because unless you're sharpening on a belt sander, using the "mousepad trick," or something else equally inconvenient, you'll end up with flat edge bevels anyway. Convex face grinds (as opposed to edge grinds) are another matter entirely. They'll last as long as the knife does without any effort on your part. So relax.
The best results I've had with the UX-10 is sharpening double bevels. On bench stones, sharpen both sides with equal angles -- the fist bevel slightly more acute than 15*, with a secondary 15* micro bevel on top, at 2:1 asymmetry. If you've got an EP or some other tool which allows really accurate angle setting go for a 15*/10* double bevel, with the 15* cutting bevel going about half way up the 10* bevel. You'll either want to use the magic marker trick to check or really polish out the cutting bevel so you can see where it ends.
The UX10 benefits from a fairly high level of polish. I wouldn't finish with less than a 5K, but the knife will hold 8K for a fairly long time if steeling isn't a part of your maintenance routine.
Misono doesn't say what alloy they use to make the UX10. Most people think 19C27, with a substantial minority guessing 13C26. In any case it's not only strong, but fairly tough. That means that profiling the edge will take a little bit of extra patience. It also means that once you do have the desired geometry that burrs and wires will be tenacious. Be sure to chase the burr until it's really ready to come off, and to be extra careful about checking for wires.
Because of the alloy's toughness, edges will be fairly long wearing... and that means they'll ding out of shape and need truing between full-on sharpening sessions. You absolutely can use a steel without fear of chipping. Alternatively, you can "touch up" on a fine stone, strop on a fine stone, a manilla file, newspaper, or whatever. If you strop to true... watch out for wires.
For what it's worth, Paul's Finest has a lot of Misono UX10 information on its website.