Maple, mahogany, walnut and cherry are excellent choices, and work equally well. However, other woods are good too. Honestly, I'm not sure about acacia or beech.
The problem with bamboo boards is not the amount of silica in the grass (bamboo is grass, not wood), but the amount of glue needed to glue the boards together.
With end grain construction the hardness of the wood is less important than other types of boards. The whole point of end grain is that it "opens" to accept the knife.
NEVER soak a wooden board in the sink. DO wipe your board with a damp rag frequently during prep to keep it clean. When it needs sanitizing, after cutting raw proteins for instance, use a spray bottle with a very dilute solution of bleach or use a commercial sanitizer in some sort spritz container.
Oil the board as needed. There are "special" board oils and board waxes, but regular, food-grade, mineral oil works just fine. New boards typically need plenty of oil before they're fully oiled. Oil them generously, every day, until they stop absorbing oil. Then either oil every two or three months, or sooner if you notice the board becoming dry. Always oil the edges and both sides of the board to help make sure the board doesn't shrink and/or swell unevenly.
If your board doesn't have feet but sits flat on the counter: Ensure the counter surface under the board is completely dry, especially if the counter gets wet; reverse the board on a regular basis to make sure both sides get equal wear.
Hope this helps,