A slight right handed asymmetry like 60/40 doesn't make the knife a righty, at least not by enough to matter. So Franz's "a bit" is a fair measure.
Going deeper into the 60/40 bias, usually 60/40 means the maker sharpened one side to a burr, then sharpened the other side just enough to draw a burr, deburred, and put the knife into the box. The sharpener has to remove more metal on the first side to get the initial burr, than on the second side to begin the "chasing" process, and that creates the asymmetry. In other words, 60/40 is faster and cheaper for the maker.
It's just as easy for a home sharpener to move the asymmetry and make it left handed, by always beginning sharpening on the left side, drawing a burr down the length of the blade before switching to sharpening the right side, and going from sharpening to chasing as soon as (s)he's flipped the burr over. Of course, the process is even easier if you use your coarse stone to grind a bit on the left side as a precursor to normal maintenance type sharpening.
If you don't use a coarse stone and just rely on the natural evolution caused by always starting on the outside edge, it won't take more than three or four sharpening sessions to get past 50/50 and into true (but slight) left handedness.
How asymmetric should you take a knife like a Tojiro DP? If you don't use a steel as part of your ordinary maintenance, AND if no righty ever touches your knife, something like 80/20 could work well. If you do steel, I wouldn't push it much past 60/40 - 70/30 range.
If you're sharing the knife with a righty, try and bias the knife to benefit the person with the weakest knife skills as asymmetry has a slight tendency towards steering. For instance, when my (right-handed) wife and I (south-paw) were sharing knives, I always sharpened them 60/40 righty.
The amount of asymmetry. The only practical way for most people is to look at the knife and visually compare the width of the bevels. If their ratio is 6:4 with the left side (edge down) wider than the right; that's 60/40. But since bevels are so narrow and eyeballing is inherently inaccurate it's not easy to meaningfully differentiate between ratios which are close. That is, 60/40, 2:1 (66/33), and 70/30 will look the same. Not a huge problem, because they're going to act the same.
As a matter of use, a higher ratio of asymmetry makes for a narrower edge at least as far as the wider bevel extends up the face of the knife. That creates greater "perceived sharpness," by reducing wedging. On the other hand, asymmetry makes the edge somewhat more prone to getting dinged out of line, which means it needs more truing but -- ironically -- is less tolerant to the easiest and most effective method of truing; i.e. steeling.
The 60/40 - 70/30 range represents a good balance between sharpness and durability. If that's your goal, you'll find that bevel widths which eyeball at 2:1 are about right left appropriate
As to the rest:
1. Uneven handles:
Typical Tojiro QC. Also typical of most Japanese made knives in the price range; so don't feel singled out. If the knife is comfortable and (assuming you have a good grip) if it points where your eyes look without a lot of checking, nothing to worry about it.
2. Won't Balance on the Spine:
But while we're on the subject of spines, you might want to think about easing the edges so they don't hurt your hand; as well as rounding the back so as not to cut yourself.
Hope this helps,