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Global sharpener

post #1 of 13
Thread Starter 

hello to everyone!

i have the global g-2 and i have bought this sharpener witch have ceramic wheel...it will keep my knife sharp? thanx!!

post #2 of 13

Depends on what you define as sharp, but if you spent over 100$ dollars on a knife already why not get a nice combo stone and learn to hand sharpen?

post #3 of 13
Thread Starter 

i cant buy stone right now there are too expensive and i havent money..the g-2 was a gift..

post #4 of 13

What's your budget for a sharpener? I would return the sharpener back to Ikea also.

post #5 of 13
The G2 is an excellent knife and deserves better. IIRC Ikea used to have a ceramic rod which wasn't that bad, for some €10. See it as an in between solution. A simple J800 grit stone would be much better. Or automotive sandpaper, grit P320, and higher. And a simple piece of leather or denim.
post #6 of 13
Thinking it again, I would add that the Global come - for obvious production reasons - with a very convexed edge. Most users will put a normal V- edge on it. It may be useful to thin them a lot, really a lot. The Global is far from being chippy and its edge doesn't need all that support.
Under these circumstances I think sandpaper is the best solution.
post #7 of 13
Thread Starter 

u say that i can sharpen my knife with a sandpaper? 

post #8 of 13
Certainly, I do. With any abrasive in fact. There a some limitations, you will only make edge trailing -- stropping -- strokes. The burr will get bigger than with stones, deburring is a little harder, but it is perfectly possible.
post #9 of 13

ah, I forgot about sand paper, but yes I would have to agree sand paper would be the cheapest way to go to get a get sharp edge. 

post #10 of 13
Thread Starter 

i haven't hear before that i can sharpen a knife with sandpaper!! the globals what angle they have on the edge? 15 and the europeans 22?

post #11 of 13
Both are very conservative estimations. Global state they deliver between 10 and 15 degree, so that isn't exactly informative. It isn't that important either, they take almost any edge. Important is thinning, and have a final edge appropriate to your use.
With a new but blunt Global I would start thinning the right side by sharpening at the lowest angle til I raise a burr, deburr, perform a similar thinning on the other side which will be much faster, and put a final edge on it of some 12 degree per side, left side a little more obtuse perhaps.
If you encounter deburring problems with a Global, don't change the angle. It will occur at any angle until you changed your technique. Burrs should be gently abraded with very little pressure, and not pushed away or broken off.
And remember: there is nothing wrong with getting rid of a poor factory edge. So make sure to remove the entire original one and have fresh steel.
post #12 of 13
Thread Starter 

ok i will follow ur advices!! thnx u all guys for the help ! ;)

post #13 of 13

Globals ship with a convex edge.  They make a big deal out of it, but it's more an artifact of the type of sharpening equipment they use, which was more an economic than a performance decision. 


The manual and electric pull-through sharpeners Yoshikin sells for Globals (the manual pull-throughs are branded "MinoSharp," the electrics are branded "Global" but are manufactured by the same people who make Chef's Choice), the , sharpen to a 15* flat bevel.  Since the factory edge only lasts a few months, and your own sharpening is for the life of the knife, Yoshikin is implicitly endorsing the 15* flat bevel. 


As a consequence of the type of alloy used to make the knives, Global knife edges are easily deformed by impact.  15* is not at all conservative.  Rather, it's about as acute as you want to take a Global.   


Getting back to convex vs flat bevels, there are arguments to be made for each geometry.  FWIW, Wusthof claims a big improvement in sharpness since they switched from hand-sharpened convex bevels to laser guided flat bevels. 


When everything is said and done, it's a good idea to focus on the best edge you can sharpen as opposed to what comes out of the box.  Most people either can't sharpen a convex bevel, or don't want to take the time... so that means a flat bevel.  Well, maybe not so much flat, as flatish.  Most people have some wobble and other error in their angle-holding, which means that as a practical matter, most knives end up with some degree of convexity. 


European manufactures use a wide variety of angles for their knives, depending on all sorts of things which may or may not matter to you.  As a sort of rough rule of thumb, I suggest sharpening your Euro knives to a 15* flat bevel.  If the edges collapse too easily and need too frequent steeling, try sharpening a 20* micro-bevel over that; in my experience, that works for nearly everything including knives which get used for very heavy-duty tasks. 


The micro-beveling advice depends on your skill level as a sharpener.  Don't try for fancy-shmancy edges until you can do consistent and effective basic sharpening. 



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