IMHO a mother sauces usage is dependent upon the style of cuisine. For example, nearly every recipe in Grand Livre de Cusine has a pool of sauce accompanying the protein, where as many other cuisines rely on thin purees, or are served dry and moistened with its own juices. Espangnole, is gravy as far as i'm concerned and people just don't use gallons of gravy at the dinner table anymore, my family doesn't even serve gravy at Thanksgiving, and no one notices, not even the "experienced" members, they just reach for the dark meat. When it comes to modernist cuisine, sauces are barely apparent at all save for a few intensely flavored drops and pools here and there. With new cooking techniques and better understanding of the molecular properties at work we simply don't need to drown our already super moist and flavorful meats in sauce. All of the other sauces have many other uses and properties, Bechamel as a binder, or veloute as a soup base for example, but Espangnole is simply a victim of time (and smaller kitchens) like larding, tallow sculpting, and aspic displays.
Long story short Demi is the refined "luxury" version of Espangnole, and if theres no longer a use for it, at the table, or in making demi, skip it altogether.
*From a chef, who got it from a chef, who probably adapted it from an obscure cook book buried underneath a bombed out building.*
This product is the back bone of our cuisine. Properly executed it will result in beautiful reduction sauces. Be mindful of its progress and usage at all times
Shelf life: 7 days May be frozen for up to 1 month
Yield: 20 quarts
120# veal neck bones - roasted in roasting pans at 300-degrees until all caramelized and rendered of excess fat. Make sure you rotate the pans in the oven as well as turn the bones over to promote even coloring
6# roasted poultry bones, weigh after roasting
8 pigs feet (16 pieces split)
4 cans tomato paste (12 oz. cans)
2-1.5 liters red wine
10# onions, onions trimmings and leek greens-rough chopped and washed
4# carrots, peeled and rough chopped
4# celery, washed and rough chopped
8 bulbs of garlic, split across the middle
2oz. fresh thyme
1 Tbsp. black peppercorns
15 bay leaves
1 ½ bunch parsley (utilize the stems, possible 3 bunches to equal the weight of 1 ½ bunches)
Combine the tomato paste and red wine in a non-reactive pot and whisk until smooth. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat and simmer for very slow for 30 minutes or until all the acid is cooked out of the tomato product. Whisk often, it tends to stick.
Mix the onions, carrots, and celery with ¼ cup of oil and coat thoroughly. Line 3 sheet trays and spread out the vegetables in a thin even layer. Roast for 45 minutes at 300-degrees stirring every 20 minutes or so to promote even cooking until golden and tender. Divide ingredients between the 3 largest pots and cover with COLD water. Slowly bring to a boil, reduce the heat, simmer for 2 days, skimming the scum and fat as needed. (At the end of day 1 re-wet the pots to cover the bones)
Do not boil- This will result in a cloudy demi-glace. Don’t allow others to add things to this pot. Have all excess trimmings of mirepoix vegetables placed in the proper mirepoix bins in the walk-in to utilize for later use.
Straining the dreadful demi-glace:
Once the ideal consistency is reached, this is strained through a large hole china cap. Then it is strained through a chinoise with a damp kitchen towel liner. You will need to rinse the towel out every so often with hot water to rinse it free of proteins. Ring it out well, re-line the chinoise and start again.
This must be thoroughly cooled immediately and stored in the cooler until needed. Freeze after 7 days if not used. May be frozen for 1 month.
Edited by Dobzre - 3/15/13 at 11:46am