That's beautiful. And your picks are getting better each day.
May 2013 - Offal Challenge - Page 3
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nothing fancy like y`all do, just good eats (and drinks too)
Ok, kgirl. That presentation rocks. That rumaki is also beautiful, petals.
My butcher didn't get the veal liver i wanted last weekend, but hopefully, I'll have some this weekend. He does the slaughtering himself, so it kinda depends what he got the particular week. My demand for veal bones also seems to be in some conflict with the demand of the restaurant he runs on the side. Always boils down to some "Seriously, I NEED to make new stock this week" - "You don't think I do?" - "So at least 4 kg, pleeeease?" ;)
I still prefer that over some supermarket nonsense that is always available.
Here's my recipe for Chicken Guts Risotto
You can make this with any of the things they call the "regagli" of the chicken: liver, gizzard, esophagus, heart (is this what we call giblets? then those). These are not all so easy to find any more - i remember my early days here buying a hen for broth, and they cleaned it but gave me these parts PLUS the eggs -that went from full-grown eggyolk size to tiny pinheads. He suggested using them to make stracciatella, that is, egg drop soup.
Anyway, my mother in law knew a peasant who raised her own chickens and would give her these free range completely organic chickens, not because they were trendy but because that's how you fed chickens, in your yard, with table scraps. And she would put the gizzard, and esophagus in the soup, cut in pieces after washing carefully and cutting up. weird but ok.
Anyway, Chicken Guts Risotto
or Risotto ai regagli di pollo alla garfagnana
(Garfagnana is the area of Tuscany my family comes from)
This is for two people plus leftovers for another night.
Take a generous handful of chicken livers and whatever else you have (they sell livers and hearts together here in the supermarket, so i got those). cut them in smallish pieces like the size of corn or beans.
Chop fairly finely a medium onion and a large shallot or two small ones.
Put about 2 or 3 tbsp butter in a hot frying pan, and let the foam subside.
Add the cut up livers, etc, and cook till they seem no longer pink.
Add the onion and shallot, and if necessary (if none is visible) a little more butter, and slowly cook, stirring, over low heat till the onion is soft. The livers will start to brown. Add enough salt and ground pepper as you would if you were salting it in your dish. Pepper is really suited to livers.
Add the risotto rice (i used arborio) (two large handfuls for each person) and if necessary a little more butter. Cook stirring about five minutes so the rice gets all coated in butter.
Add about 1/4 cup DRY vermouth or some wine, raise heat to medium, and stir up all the browned stuff the liver has left on the pan. When the wine is no longer visible, add a tbsp of tomato paste (NO MORE) and about a half cup of canned tomatoes. If you don;t have the tomatoes, use 2 tbsp paste and if you don;t have paste, use a cup of tomatoes. Stir and cook for a few minutes. Add about a cup of broth.
stir occasionally, cooking over low heat. Add more broth or water as it dries up until the rice tastes cooked - no white hard crunchy parts when you bite it, but it's still firm and holds up under your teeth.
Remove and serve with parmigiano on the side.
It's very simple, and very tasty, and i think you'll find a very unusual kind of risotto
I didn;t make pictures because it's too simple, and shouldn't need them . I'll try to make one of the final dish when i finish it.
The Heart of Tuscany
A while back I posted this picture:
The meats were cubed and stuck in the freezer to firm them up before grinding. I got sidetracked, it took a while to get back to it. Beef heart about half the mix, pork shoulder and some salt pork the other half. Went through the course die, then about a third of the mix through a finer die with the smashed garlic cloves. Mixed in with lots of black pepper, coriander, salt, some red pepper flakes. Mixed in some red wine to get the right consistency. This particular sausage is modeled after Tuscany style, with no fennel but a heavier hand with the garlic and pepper, so you don't get that familiar licorice note of "standard" Italian sausage in the flavor.
Stuffed into the casings and ready to chill for a while:
I need a new knife for my grinder, and more practice.
After a night in the fridge, poached in water with some red wine added, a nice "purple heart" color to the skins.
And here's a lunch sized link in the skillet with the onions and peppers:
The end result, plated with a salad from just down the road:
That was quite a tasty sandwich! I'm happy with the flavor, the heart certainly gives it a nice beefy note. But I missed the distinctive texture of heart. Next time I'll not grind all the heart, but will put some cubes directly into the mix.
But overall quite pleased with the result.
mjb, that looks like something I would eat, though I am not a fan of heart, but looks great as sausages, never thought of doing that...
Hehe, I am aware of that - I only did cured, dried or smoked meat so far due to lack of equipment. No grinder, no stuffer, no food processor really usable for homogenizing the meat while really keeping it cool. I have to go a bit slow on the investments at the moment - the new house and garden have been eating up my cash lately. Next step will definitely be a decent grinder, though - I am just about done with buying mince anyway :D
Thanks a lot. I find chicken liver a bit more - well, how to put it, harsh. Rabbit is a bit sweeter in my opinion, and I added quite a bit of Port to cut through the remaining bitterness.
Two very nice dishes, Gene. Such presentation makes the step easier for many people to give offal at least a try; so many people eat with their eyes.
In my region, we have a rabbit dish that's very popular. It's a stew made with rabbit, prunes and -well, what else- dark beer. The liver always goes in, you can even taste it throughout the dish if it's used. So delicious!
In the old days, many times I heard that the rabbit brain was even nicer. That was the time when the head was also used in the dish (obviously). Never tried rabbit brain, so I can't confirm how good it is.
teamfat: a surprising idea. Heart sausage!
Gene: great dishes.
Chris: Regarding the head and offal of the rabbit, i remember a very nice Coniglio alla ischitana video, by a home cook called Mimmo Corcione. Here it is. He uses the head offal, bacon, etc. to prepare a great sauce (fumeto). Its in Italian tho (ischitano).
Thanks so much for posting this video, Ordo! That's what I call proper (Italian) cooking. This recipe is a school-example of how to braise meat perfectly.
I had to go to youTube to watch the entire video since it stops here halfway.
That's how I discovered how busy this guy has been! I would pay good money to learn from that guy, I mean hands-on.
Yo're welcome Chris. This guy Mimmo is a real character. Love him and his cooking. When, at the end, he tastes the food it's a pleasure to see.
Oven roasted chitterlings
Now that is something I really haven't touched yet. I basically had every bit of offal, except for chitterlings. I have to admit that this is the point where I get somewhat squeamish. Probably would try it if prepared by someone who knows his way around this, but for myself, hmm. Rather not. I am defeated...
Of course you're not defeated Gene. Just uses and customs. We eat barbecued (open grill) chitterlings since decades ago. In fact, i doubt a new challenge will be as interesting as this one.
OK: this is the way to go with our local chitterlings braid, after that video:
Edited by Ordo - 5/23/13 at 2:43pm
I read a recipe by Karlos Arguiñano for a brochette of lamb kidneys and pears, which unfortunately -- if you don't speak Spanish -- doesn't seem to be translated yet, and which just as unfortunately I'm too lazy to do for you. On the other hand and feet, (a) there's a video, so at least you can watch if you're curious; (b) it's lamb kidneys and pears on a stick, you don't need a lot of recipe to get the gist; and (c) there's likely to be a lot of changes and improvisation between now and making them anyway.
Lamb kidneys aren't easily available around here, and Linda won't eat them -- so finding the right time won't be easy. When I do make them, it's possible I'll go pork instead of lamb because pork kidneys are as easy to get as going to an Asian grocery with a butcher shop, and there are plenty of those around here. Whether lamb or pork, I'll probably string them on rosemary stems instead of steel skewers (the rosemary bushes are going mad), and grill over a live oak fire.
BDL - What is your connection with Spain? You've posted more than once about Spanish culture and food.
My mother used to make calf's kidneys in a white wine/ sherry sauce, but cleaning them and removing the white tissue was crucial. Sometimes she would saute briefly in bacon fat or par boil and set aside. Then olive oil and garlic for a minute or two, add the kidneys, chopped parsley, salt and pepper, and then sherry to finish. Served over rice.
This is not part of the contest but since it's drawn interest from people who like offal, if anyone is interested, I have some recipes from a couple of Italian regional cookbooks written by local people. I can pass them on if anyone wants them. Offal was, of course, eaten by people who couldn't afford other cuts of meat. There's an old restaurant in Rome near the former slaughterhouse which served only offal - tripe, pagliata (veal intestine), oxtail, kidneys, liver, the works. I never much liked the stuff so I've never gone.
Anyway,from a cookbook of Versiglia and Garfagnana (province of Lucca, where my family comes from), I have some recipes for: sweetbreads with marsala, pig livers skewered on laurel branches, with sage and fennel flowers, wrapped in their "net" of fat, breaded and fried; mountain style pig livers with fennel sticks, stewed in red wine; preserved tongue. There's also a blood sausage made from pig's blood and other assorted pig offal, that is eaten as is, or sliced and pan fried, or used in a broth to cook a cabbage soup within which is then cooked cornmeal - I had this at a feast of the Befana in Barga - they had a giant cauldron of it outside over a fire and gave out bowls of it along with mulled wine. The kids all dressed as old ladies (the befana) went from store to store and door to door singing the traditional song and getting sweets.
I have another book from Terni, southern Umbria, of traditional peasant food, and if anyone is interested i can look for it.
ok, you asked for it.
I never made any of these and probably never will, but here they are, translated from the Italian from the book La Cucina di Versilia e Garfagnana (The cooking of Versilia and Garfagnana - vaer-SEELL-yah and gar-fan-YA-nah)
Polmone alla casalinga - lung home style
Take a piece of lung big enough to feed the people you're cooking for. Cut it in pieces as for stew.
Chop finely onion, garlic, carot, sage, rosemary and basil, and fry very slowly in oil with salt and pepper.
When this is cooked and barely colored, add the pieces of lung and let them cook over medium heat for about 1/4 hour. Add a tablespoon of tomato paste mixed with a glass of white wine/. Keep cooking for another 1/4 hour or until the lung is tender and without any residue of red.
Serve with toasted rustic bread or polenta
"Fegatelli del mi pa'" (My Pa's pork livers)
prepare sticks about 20 cm long of bay bush, removing the bark and keeping the leaves for later.
Cut the pork liver in fairly large pieces.
Chop finely together: a clove of garlic, a few leaves of sage and some wild fennel flowers. Put this in a large pot along with a handful of breadcrumbs, salt, and pepper and mix it all together. Roll each piece of liver in this mixture, and wrap each completely in a large enough piece of pork fat net (is this called caul fat?) so that no part is uncovered.
Make little shish kebabs with 4 liver pieces alternating with bay leaves, four to a laurel stick.
You can also add pieces of toasted rustic bread alternating with the liver and bay leaves
In a frying pan with a little oil, heat the pan and lay the sticks side by side in one layer and cook for about ten minutes over medium high heat, turning occasionally, and in the last two or three minutes, sprinkle some dry white wine over them as they cook.
Typically these are served with white tuscan beans that are first boiled and then tossed over high heat in the oil of the livers, or else with boiled rapini tossed in the same oil.
Lingua di bove gratinata (Beef tongue, gratinee)
Boil and cool a tongue.
Slice it in thin slices.
Chop up pickles (not sweet), parsley, small onions, shallots and a bit of chervil. IN a dish that can be put in the oven, put two fingers of broth (about an inch or so), half the chopped stuff, salt and pepper and a generous dusting of bread crumbs. Put layers of tongue on top of this, and then covering with the chopped stuff agian and finally another generous dusting of breadcrumbs. Bake in a moderate oven until a nice crust has formed.
finally a recipe i remember as a kid and liked:
Tongue in green sauce
Slice boiled tongue (it works well also with boiled beef and also with anchovies, the salted ones in big cans, with lots of salt crystals that you wash off and remove the spine of) and layer it with a very large quantity of chopped parsley and several crushed garlic cloves, salt, pepper and olive oil, Let it sit overnight.