Luke Snyder- Bloodroot Blades- 205mm Funyaki Gyuto
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sorry guys photos not working...
any advice? i use flickr and i tried the img url an the site url no luck. also uploading photos not working? here is a link to a finished review
Try the pix again. You're still new in the system so you were not allowed to do everything. It's a default to help control spam. I marked you as a trusted user now so it should work normally.
My, what a pain Flickr makes posting an image here at Cheftalk. Bleah. Click the Share menu. Click Grab the HTML/BB code.
Copy that code.
Now, here at Cheftalk on Huddler, the site doesn't accept html or bb code in the editor. So you have to paste the code and edit it down to just the URL inside the quotes of img src= which in this case is http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2855/9294723548_f4e9a9ccdb.jpg Use that part inside the post image tool for the URL of the photo.
And it will work. Hassle though.
Thanks for your help!
Yes a great knife indeed!
i want to add that Luke delivered exactly what i ordered from him
I'd like it to be about 160-200mm with enough height for knuckle clearance 42-48mm depending on handle size. I'd like it to be thin behind the edge and tip but robust by the spine. I really like the flatish carter profile you have produced. Japanese wa handle preferable.
also never mentioned about steel choice, as i know he uses recycled materials so edge retention was never requested.
hope this helps, he is a very skilled maker
Great review! You told me everything I needed to know about why you loved the knife, showed me why it would be wrong for me, and kept me entertained along the way. The Flickr video was also very good. One thing I didn't understand was your reference to changing the direction of the teeth. Which teeth? Which direction?
And, not that the reference to "saw steel" didn't make sense, but the term covers an awful lot of ground. Which alloy in particular? Someone in KKF asked about L6 (makes sense), and someone else confirmed it -- but the someone else wasn't you.
Sometimes new knives have big carbides along the edge. It's possible your knife's edge retention might improve when enough sharpening takes you down to fresh, new metal.
On the other hand, if the "poor" edge retention is caused by burring (impact and corrosion burrs seem a LOT more likely than wear), stropping might be the solution. You can go unloaded on newsprint, but if you like loaded strops think about 1u Boron or CBN as an alternative to diamond. You could also strop or "touch up" on a fine or ultra-fine splash and go, like a Naniwa SS 5K or Naniwa Pure White. The best choice is probably whatever is easiest to shlep to work.
If lack of edge retention IS related to the teeth, try partials.
What i meant in referring to the teeth is the direction in which the cutting teeth are pointing, Murray talks about this in a video somewhere, but basically if you sharpen traditonally you will have teeth designed for slicing, if you switch the direction theoretically it would work better for push cutting, and parallel should work for both well.
Im not actually sure what steel it is specifically, i know from talking with Luke that it is not L6.
Devin Thomas - Saw blade is 15n20 or 15n2 which is the same thing. L6 has chrome and a splash of moly in it along with 2% nickel. 15N20 has 2% nickel. L6 is a tool and die steel and 15N20 is made for saws. A little different.
I have also been wondering if it will get better with time and i will have to report for sure. I have been using my diamond strop with this knife and it responds very well i can keep it going for some time that way but eventually the edge will not come back.
Not that he isn't a terrific sharpener, but Murray says all sorts of things -- some of which are gold and others of which are whack. Murray sharpens with strokes which combine honing AND stropping movements (how most of us sharpen, these days). Since he's already got both covered, it's hard to imagine sharpening in "the other direction."
Making fun of my betters aside, I don't think that whether you choose to hone or strop does much to change the direction or set of the micro-serration. The serration itself is a continuation of the scratch, and the angle of the scratch is a function of the angle of the long axis of the knife relative to the angle of the action. Whether you lead with edge or spine is irrelevant. If you think it through, you'll find that "intuitively obvious." Another aspect of reality which isn't friendly to Murray's theory is the variety of styles used by actual sharpeners. For instance, if I hold the right side of my knife at about 30* relative to the action, and the left side at -30*, (60* opposed) what direction are the teeth?
Diamond is a fast, and effective charge. What makes diamond different from other fast, effective charges like CBN or Boron is that it adds "bite." Otherwise, fast, effective stropping is fast, effective stropping. If you want a more slippery edge than diamond gives you have options. If you like diamond, good for you.
L6, 15N20, whatever. When I read your words, I heard "could be 1095." Doesn't really matter much anyway. One of the things which sets Bloodroot apart from other makers is it's reliance on "recycled" rather than "flavor of the month."
I hope you're enjoying your new "do it all," as much as I'm enjoying mine.
Edited by boar_d_laze - 7/18/13 at 7:43am