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Canadian Sabatier Profile

post #1 of 8
Thread Starter 

I recently purchased a Thiers-Issard Sabatier "Canadian" 8" chef's  knife from TBT, with a nice straight blade, and great F&F.  My concern is about the blade profile and what, if anything, to do about it.  Placing the knife edge down, and calling the bolster zero, one sees the following:  The blade makes contact at 0.625" and at  3.25".  Between these contact spots the blade is a bit up, but is nearly straight.  Looking from the side - one sees just a little daylight.


Would it be prudent to knock down the first high spot at 0.625", so that the blade sits flat ? Cutting on a flat board, using a knife with a hollow spot, the knife will not be going all the way through what you are trying to cut.   If I do try to flatten the high spot near the bolster - is a file, or a stone, the right tool ?  The other option is to seek professional help.


The profile of this Canadian Sabatier is quite different from my Konosuke HD.  For sharpening I use an EdgePro with Shapton stones.



post #2 of 8
I would start by removing the high spot at some 80 degree per side with the coarsest medium you have. Once you started you will see more sections that need correction. When done with the profile, restore geometry with thinning behind the (former) edge, verify the profile again, and, finally, set new bevels.
post #3 of 8
Thread Starter 

Good advice - looking at the knife - I may also have to thin down the integral forged finger guard a bit.  Best

post #4 of 8
The French chef's knives typically have a large dead flat section starting at the heel. Some like it for French push cutting, holding the blade with both hands; others hate it, because of the "cloink" when rock chopping. Anyway, have the heel a tad higher, and try to establish a very shallow (convex) arc. A really deadly flat section tends to be or become again slightly concave.
And sure, now you're working on it, it's a great opportunity to reduce the fingerguard so it won't disturb you in the years to come,
post #5 of 8
Here I tried to make the fingerguard flush with the relief bevel. By the way, it's a vintage Sheffield, no French.

post #6 of 8
Thread Starter 

I have a 500 grit shapton stone, and will try this on the finger guard.  As to the Edge Pro angle, I guess I will start by matching the current finger guard angle, and just try to get some metal off.  I will remove enough of the finger guard so that I might get a couple years of blade sharpening in - before running up against the finger guard again.  


On your " try to establish a very shallow (convex) arc ", is there a trick to this - or is it an artistic thing ?  Would the arc run from the current 3.25" contact point to the finger guard ?



post #7 of 8
With the fingerguard I would start by removing material above the actual bevel or what is left of it after correcting the profile issue, at an angle that corresponds to a reasonable relief bevel, say 8-10 degree per side.
But first get the profile right before even thinking about the geometry.
Please be aware the blade is very thick at the heel compared to modern knives.
Nothing artistic about the arc. Once you have it flat you go a little further and remove more at the heel, and, if necessary, further along the edge to obtain a smooth transition between the sections.
Edited by Benuser - 10/6/13 at 8:16pm
post #8 of 8
Don't use your good stones yet. You would for sure damage them. Have some automotive sandpaper (grit beginning at P120) and put a strip of it on a stone or wooden box or whatever. Perform stropping (edge trailing) motions only.
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