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Would an electric Sharpener Ruin The knife?

12K views 35 replies 16 participants last post by  millionsknives 
#1 · (Edited)
Hi,

I have and I am thinking about buying a Chef's Choice 1520. From the reading I have done on here it seems that an electric sharpener might not be suitable but its rather a grey area. What are your thoughts?
 
#2 ·
having seen multiple acquaintances totally trash decent (read:  expensive) knives with electrics, I would not let an electric within grid length of my knife block.

if you search back in the Forum, you'll find "acceptance" of (I think only...) one "brand" - it's completely inflexible, and imho only works in the hands of an experienced to expert sharpener.

so basically, unless you're already an expert in sharpening and already have 'the touch,' odds are using it will cause uncouth damage to the knives.
 
#3 ·
I'm going to disagree with dilbert, I own a chef choice trizor and also sharpen by hand. I also own a Mac Pro and in the past used the chef choice on the Mac. It is not hard to use as long as you use a light touch it works fairly well. Sharpen a cheaper knife or two first and you'll be all set. It's not in the same category as stones and the heel can give you some problems but if its between being sharp and not its not even a question. Some people will tell you it takes off way too much metal, not true. Maybe a small amount more than stones but nothing substantial. I would always encourage you to learn hand sharpening but if thats not in the cards the chef choice will do a decent job
 
#4 ·
>>I own a chef choice trizor and also sharpen by hand.

what's to disagree?  you already have sharpening skills, which is what I said.

if you know enough to know aalread what a 'light touch' is - you won't be putting divots in the middle of the blade....

(some) electrics may be okay - if and when properly used.  otherwise they are 'the destroyer of blades'
 
#7 ·
Thanks for all who have contributed thus far to this post. I wanted to get some opinions on a sharpener out there. I've spent TOO long researching this and now I think I've reached the point of information overload.

In searching I eventually came across Benuser's comment about geometry. So does an electric sharpener that allows you to select the blade angle sound like a good solution? I found a review of one here, but I'm still not sold. Has anyone used this particular model before? Is there a better model out there?

I've also looked at some of the sharpening systems from Edge Pro and they look like a good solution. Any help is greatly appreciated.
 
#8 ·
I have used every model of ChefsChoice they have ever offered. Once you set the primary edge bevels created by the first stage wheels, stay off of them as much as possible. Oonly use the second and third stages (some models only have two stages) for touch ups. Often, all you need is the third stage and it takes very little metal off a blade. Most of the time I hand sharpen but if I have a big job coming up and need to sharpen a number of knives at once, the ChefsChoice pro model comes out.
 
#9 ·
Where I take issue with 'lectric sharpeners is with the word "electric".....

See, if you hone a knife by hand you are moving at maybe 15-20 rev. per min.  With a 'lectric one you are moving the abrasive or the knife at much higher rpms.

What this really means is that you are removing much more steel with a 'lectric device compared to a manual one.  If you use an electric device multiple times a week, your knives will shrink at an alarming rate....

That is not to say electric machines don't have their place.  They do, but not with honing, rather with massive amounts of metal removal:  Like to grind out a bad nick or to re-establish a bevel, that's what they do best. Then hone by hand.  You'd be there all night if you tried remove a nick by hand.

But for daily honing and light touch-ups, I stay away from electric appliances, I don't need any more boning knives.....  
 
#10 ·
The biggest problem with an electric sharpening device is that  it can permanently, instantly and irreparably destroy the temper of the thin thin edge  by over heating.

You wouldn't even know that it happened.

"Why my expensive knife wouldn't hold a sharp edge? Must be the fault of the manufacturer!"

dcarch
 
#11 · (Edited)
I know those combination can opener/knife sharpeners sometimes over heat blades but I've never known a ChefsChoice machine to do that.  I've also used the professional model Master Grade machine. It seems to warm the blades up a little but the maker insists it will never over heat them. He wasn't very happy with me for even suggesting it would.
 
#12 ·
I know those combination can opener/knife sharpeners sometimes over heat blades but I've never known a ChefsChoice machine to do that. I've also used the professional model Master Grade machine. It seems to warm the blades up a little but the maker insists it will never over heat them. He wasn't very happy with me for even suggesting it would.
There is no way you can get around the law of physics. You move metal quickly, you will generate heat. Thin knife edge has extremely low thermal mass, and it can get hot quickly.

Unless you us water to lubricate and to cool.

As I said you may not even know that your knife edge has been de-tempered. You can't tell if it happened. most of the time the oxidation discoloration gets removed by the grinding.

dcarch
 
#14 ·
And this has happened to you on the ChefsChoice Dcarch?
I don't have a ChefsChoice. However, I do use a belt sander and a motorized grinding stone to sharpen some of my knives.

I can do that without too much problem because I made many of my knives using D2 tool steel, which is very heat resistant.

The other knives I use my hand stone sharpening system.

dcarch
 
#15 ·
I just dunno about this....

I see any motorized abrasive as a course metal removal tool, not at all ideal to put a finished edge on a blade--in much the same way as a cement truck is not ideal to go on a date with...

As a side line, I pick up chisels and other woodworking tools at fleas and garage sales and "fix em' up".  More often than not the edge is beyond toast, and has been used as a paint can opener.  This is where the powered grinder--even one @3450 rpm can be usefull--to grind a new bevel on.  If you leave the chisel in one place or press hard, you will get hot spots and ruin the temper, if you move the chisel or tool fairly quickly and with light pressure, either dunking it in water or grinding another tool in between, you are more than likely not to get hot spots.  Same thing with plane irons which are usually in the 2-21/2" widths.  In the case of a well sharpened blade with a nick in it, the usual protocol is to "dub" the edge, or grind off the edge so you can re-establish a new bevel past the bottom of the nick.

Most knives, however are anywhere from 6-10" long, and if you use light passes and move the tool fairly quickly, you are not likely to get hot spots.  There is no way you will get a sharp edge on a blade with just a grinder, as you are almost guaranteed to burn the edge, the grinder is only there to establish the bevel, the removal of the grinder's grit pattern and honing should be done by hand.
 
#18 ·
--------------------. If you mean sharp enough to make thin slices off a ripe tomato or shave the hair off your arm with ease, yes the ChefsChoice machine will do it with ease.
That is very true. Because you can have almost any metal sharpen sharp enough to shave hair, including aluminum. The question is how long can the edge remain sharp after you damaged the temper of the steel.

That is why I think it is meaningless to see those demos of slicing paper, slicing tomatoes and shaving hair.

dcarch
 
#20 ·
Gee, I must have been one lucky son of a gun for the last 20+ years then. Trust me on this, I own and have used every type of sharpening stone and gadget out there as part of my profession. My basic opinion is the ChefsChoice is a good machine for those that don't know how to hand sharpen or are too busy to do that on a regular basis.  Belt sanders (I have one) and this little electric sharpener are apples and oranges.
 
#24 ·
Tempering, without going into the science:

Steel (or stainless steel) is very ductile and somewhat soft. It is first cut, forged, heated to red hot and hammered into a knife shape. Then it is ground to have a rough edge, a very dull edge.

At this point it is subject to very high heat and then a very sudden cooling to harden the metal. After hardening the metal is hard but very brittle. It is then tempered slowly in low heat to reduce the brittleness. After the tempering, the dull edge is carefully and skillfully ground and polished into a useful sharp knife.

It you heat up the edge too much, you will permanently destroy this entire process.

dcarch
 
#26 ·
Only solution would be to have the heat treatment repeated.
Generally no.

You have to first disassemble the knife to remove the handle, then any unevenness in the grind of the knife will cause the blade to twist, bend and warp.

The very fine edge and thick spine of the blade results in severe differential shrinkage of the metal during hardening and often cause the blade to spontaneously crack.

dcarch
 
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