The knife I favor now is my Muteki by Carter. It has a white carbon steel core blade laminated with stainless steel, 271mm in blade length with a wide blade height of 56mm, a thin spine of 1.4mm, and light in weight - 185grams. The handle is made of Arizona hardwood.
The Muteki knives are made by Murray's apprentices under his supervision, so the price isn't shocking, and, unlike other high end knives that interest me, not always out of stock. One of Murray's apprentices, whom I met and watched at work, Shamus, has studied under Murray for 11 years and is a dedicated bladesmith.
My current go-to knife is Shiro Kamo's 240 gyuto in R2. I think the value it presents for a knife in R2, and therefore stainless, is fantastic (especially as it is a damascus knife) . It is somewhat chippy (but I am a home cook without pro knife skills, so that is probably my problem....). I am starting to accumulate a few other knives but it remains the one I reach for first.
All PM steels have poor edge stability. You can sharpen them to as steep an angle as you want, but the edge will just chip right away on board contact without a 15deg/side microbevel. Just a few light stropping strokes at the elevated angle to finish is all. There will be little loss in performance because your edge is still very thin, and there will be a tremendous increase in edge retention.
I do have my Takamura at about 10deg/side, but that one never sees the board except the tip as I finish a slice, no whacking, and most of my cutting with it is actually done in hand. No problem with micro-chipping there.
I also wonder if the chipping I was seeing might have been from the OOTB edge. I've always been uncomfortable about sharpening the OOTB edge before actually playing with it a bit first. Since I sharpened it I don't think I have seen as much (if any) chipping. But, as I said, I haven't used it as much recently due to novelty factor of my Christmas purchases. I'll definitely have a crack at the micro-bevel soon; have a new Kitayama 8000 which needs breaking in.