Originally Posted by kavik79
Okay, one more question.......isn't this a left handed asymmetrical grind??
I thought the flatter side was supposed to be towards food you're cutting off of, and the steeper angle towards the food that's been cut, to help with food release? ('m a righty)
Well, I've compared this pic to as many choil shots as I could find.....unless I'm looking at something wrong, this looks like the opposite of what I should expect from a right handed knife (despite the fact that I've also read that the Tojiro ITK's are symmetrical grinds.....but everyone seems to have a different definition and seem to jump back and forth between (a)symmetrical grinds and (a)symmetrical bevels in the same discussion, making it even more confusing)
So.....I've got some work to do on this one....more than the bit of practice I planned to get from just basic thinning of a blade
I cut up a few potatoes tonight to compare the blades
The ITK will only cut straight if I go slow and focus on keeping it straight the whole way through, but I've got to work at it.
If I loosen the grip or try to just cut normal, it slides out to the right like crazy.
Slices stick to the right side of blade.
Tried with the Tojiro DP with the factory edge: It's not as sharp as the edge I put on the ITK, but definitely very useable out of the box
more importantly, I had no problem cutting straight, thin slices
Releases cut food fairly well
Then I popped the handle off the ITK and stuck it on the Konosuke
(It's ugly, and the tang is longer, so there's more of a gap from blade to handle....but it's snug and it's straight. good enough to test with)
Again using the factory edge, it doesn't feel as sharp as the other two, but cuts very well anyway
With this one I was just shaving slices off like nothing. Less than 1/16" thin through a decent sized potato, and by the time I got to the board I had gone off course just a hair, but wasn't out the side of the potato yet, maybe half the thickness off.
Whether it's the shape of the grind, or the thinness of the blade, I can't say for sure. But I can say that it does have the opposite shape of the picture above. Looks closer to straight on the left side (looking down while cutting), and slightly more of an angle on the right (though, obviously less pronounced, since it's so much thinner)
What I can say for sure is that I'm even more eager now to see what this thing does with a finer edge on it!
For now, my impressions are this:
The DP is a nice little knife. If I wanted yo handles and stainless blades these would definitely still be on the table. Only thing I'd need to make my decision on it would be finding some time to see how the sharpening goes with it
The ITK gets a wicked edge with ease.....but I'm not considering buying any more of them. The thickness and questionable grinds are the main reason, but also the fact that the cladding is 10x more reactive than the core steel, and it kinda smells really funky
The Konosuke, while definitely nice so far, is the one I've used the least. I like the thinness/lightness for small tasks.
I didn't pull out another onion or anything else that the blade would be highly reactive to, but just from the water it's definitely less reactive than the ITK so far.
And while so far I think I'm going to be glad I bought this one for the price without the handle, I can't see myself investing in the larger blades in the Fujiyama line. However, I'm not totally ruling out the less expensive 'regular' knives yet. The Konosuke Fujiyama White #2 240mm gyuto is going for $333, more than I'm going to spend on one knife. The non-Fujiyama White # 2 240mm gyuto is $238, more than I originally planned, but not completely outlandish.
If a 240 Fujiyama with no handle pops up for sale (there is a 270mm for $221, but I really don't think I need that big) I'd certainly consider it, but I'm not 100% sold on the carbon yet, I need to get a bigger selection of stuff to cut to finish making that decision