Originally Posted by Benuser
. Besides from the question how to successfully deburr at that level without damaging the remaining edge. And sharpening every time without need on a relatively coarse stone implies a lot of material getting wasted, and the blade's lifespan dramatically shortened.
I'm not sure if that was a question or statement you made there, So if my answer is something you already know I apologize. Finer grit water stones (especially Japanese natural stones) the mud created will in fact polish away the burr from the previous stone. I.M.O J-nats do a better (although sometimes slower) job at this. I can go from a 2000 grit stone to a J-Nat and that's it, no in between for further progression needed. The other thing I find helpful is to debut on course stones before flipping over to the other side of the knife, and before going on to the next stone. This is because the burr created on course stones (under 1200) likes to "hang on", so it flip flops back and forth and therefore you're not actually sharpening the edge anymore with the burr in the way. So on a very dull knifes I will start with a 320-500 stone (depending on the type of steel, or if there are chips and damage that have to be removed). I sharpen one side (usually the front side) till I can feel the burr on the other side. Then I deburr with a wine cork, coper pipe, or sometimes the edge of a cutting board before I sharpen the other side. I'll then go to a 800 stone and do the same thing, 1000 same. Then I'll do one of two things. On very fine single bevel I'll go to a 2000 stone then a j-Nat. On most knives I'll speed it up by just going to a leather belt on a belt sander loaded with diamond compound. That same lether belt I use almost every day on my double bevel knives (note: pro chef/ heavy use, home cook wouldn't need to do this daily) this keeps my knives sharp (in the sense of not having to go back to the stones) for a long time, months, I would assume years for a home cook.
A few other things regarding your post: 1st it's funny but if you polish the bar from a course stoner rather then remove it you get an exceptionally sharp knife (it just doesn't hold up to heavy daily use), Murray Carter (a knife maker) is a great example of this.
2nd as opposed to the above I prefer a convex, polished edge on most knives for their durability. I.M.O. A polished convex edge is not that noticeably "less sharp" then and flat ground edge, but it lasts a lot longer.