Originally Posted by cheflayne
Demi glace is a combination of espagnole and white stock flavored with madiera or sherry.
Glace de viande is reduced meat stock.
Most restaurants these days make glace de viande but call it demi glace.
I haven't made a true demi glace in a restaurant in probably 30 years.
So glad to read this, chef. I'm 65 and I cook since forever. I live in Europe and not once in my life have I read a recipe that called for demi-glace. I know it exists from theoretical courses and... from reading on this forum that it's being used in the US. So,... it's non other than glace de viande? That makes a lot of sense all the sudden.
In my own country, many recipes will mention using "fond brun" (or "bruine fond" in dutch), as you know the classic preparation with veal bones etc. After many hours, when it's done and sieved, many times it's reduced again to get in a further stage of concentration. From then it's called "glace de viande". However, even then, most cooks around here keep calling it "fond brun" even when it's reduced into an almost rubbery consistency. The name "glace de viande" has also disappeared in modern cooking. In general they call both "fond brun" and "glace de viande" simply "fond de veau" (veal stock), which it is. Both products, fond brun and glace de viande are still used, but most recipes will simply call for "fond de veau" (or veal stock in english).
I read a lot of food magazines and a number of them are French. You should see how many recipes call for using... bouillon cubes!! I know for a fact that in France many people use cubes for making soups and many other preparations. It's also very common in my own country and all over Europe.
But, as you know, not all restaurants make their own fonds (stock). A lot of good restaurants still do it daily but many have a saucier called... Knorr!
I'm not even criticizing them for using these pastes, they are quite well made. I have to disappoint the amateur cooks, it's sold to professionals only; it says "bruine fond" and "fond brun" on the backside. It's a paste, recommended to use 65g per 1 liter hot water, et voilà, the fond is ready. Or, to deglaze your pan; deglaze with water, add a little paste, let boil, et voilà again, the jus is made.
But, nothing to worry for the amateur cooks like myself. As I already mentioned, I will not hesitate to use these pastes below that are now available in many brands. Stock cubes are history!
I dare many amateur cooks to make a better stock (fond) than you can make with dissolving a bit of these pastes in hot water !!
I use them the same way as the professional (sic) Knorr stuff; dissolve a bit of paste in hot water (experiment and taste, taste, taste how much is needed). Or also, adding water to a preparation and a bit of this paste.
Again, I would even dare to compare sauces made with this stuff versus a sauce made with the "real thing"...
The sauce in the venison dish below is made with paste. Reduce red tempranillo wine with black berries. Add red wine vinegar and a bit of sugar to balance it out. When reduced to at least half (taste, taste, taste..), add the same amount of fond (stock) aka dissolved paste and reduce untill at least half again. When your meat is done, rest it and use the sauce preparation to deglaze the pan. Taste for seasoning. You probably won't need to add salt since the paste is salted. Now, "monter au beurre"; add a few small cubes of icecold butter and swirl the pan above the heat or away from the heat until it emulsifies somewhat. Sieve through a very fine sieve if necessary, done and de-li-ci-ous...
This post is not meant to keep everyone from making their own fonds (stock), it's meant to give an alternative way. I really think serious amateur cooks should make a "fond brun" and reduce it to "glace de viande" at least once in their life. And I mean after they have built up some experience, then it will make more sense.