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Veal Stock Methods

post #1 of 5
Thread Starter 

OK so we use a lot of brown veal stock in the winter months and there seems to be differing opinions on how it should be made in our kitchen. Nobody makes a "bad" stock but everyone thinks their way is best, of course! I am the sous so what I say goes but I know on my day off it's being made differently, of course!

 

 I prefer a cleaner veal stock so here is the method I employ:

 

1.) Wash veal bones under running water

2.) Blanch bones in boiling water briefly in tilt skillet

3.) Dump water and Remove bones, wipe out residue in tilt skillet

4.) Roast bones at 420 with a little oil about 30-40 mins

5.) Add bones to cold water in tilt skillet

6.) Roast cleaned, peeled mirepoix with tomato paste in oven, putting celery and leeks in later than the carrots and onions to avoid over browning.

7.) Add mirepoix, sachet, and onion brulee. Sometimes I add concasse if the plum tomatoes are good and cut back on the paste.

8.) Strain through mesh filter into 5 gallon containers. Cool rapidly in sink with ice water.

,

I feel this makes a clean, well balanced stock and is very inline with most all classical methods. The thing that seems to confuse the kitchen staff is the washing then blanching of bones before roasting. I know this is part laziness and part not knowing better. Also, staff are perplexed as to why my stock isn't as dark as theirs and thus "not as good". As I've tried to explain their stock is darker because far more impurities are remaining in the stock from not washing the bones, if you've ever blanched veal bones you'll know once you dump the blanching water it smells funky, all that funk is remaining in the finished product if you don't blanch. Also, leaving onion skins etc. contributes to a darker color. They can't seem to get the idea of a very dark stock being the standard out of their heads.

 

Anyone like to weigh in on my veal stock method? Like I said I like a clean veal stock thus the washing/blanching and don't use trim or scraps but start with whole mirepoix etc. For things like chicken stock obviously I don't take as much care since there not really going into sauces.

 

Thanks.

post #2 of 5
It's a good method. I personally would take it a step further and use the french laundry method and not roast the bones. Although technically a white stock, you can achieve a nice dark amber brown through reduction and the tomato paste/fresh tomatoes.

It's a super clean, neutrel veal stock but still has a great flavor. I love it. However my former chef(who trained at the laundry for 5 years in it's heyday) absolutely hated it. He made veal stock/demi the traditional brown method with no blanching; so different strokes I guess.
post #3 of 5

There are a lot of variations...it's the end result that matters.  You said you're happy with the taste but it's lighter than the one your staff makes.  Who's tastes more like veal...through and through, from aroma, taste, etc. 

 

If it's good....it's good, there are about a dozen differing methods of how to get there.  Every chef has their own way of doing things......more often than not, the best have slight variations on the same theme and yield very close results.....

 

FL, EMP, etc. offer you glimpses of different methods to produce similar end products. 

 

I've seen roasting vs. no roasting, make 1's and 2's.  Remouillage, etc. 

 

Point is......figure out who's is best.....or the best vs. cost based on your particular needs and standardize it.  You shouldn't have differing methods floating around the kitchen depending on who's day off it is. 

post #4 of 5
Hmmm. I rinse my bones, than rub with tomato paste and roast. When nicely browned they go into the pot with a standard mirepoix and aromatics. I don't really bother with sachet's for stocks. Roll for 6-8 hours strain (reserve bones) and cool, this is my v1. Day 2 I use the reserved bones, build a new mirepoix and roll again for another 6-8 hours to get my v2. Day 3 I combine both and reduce down to a nice spankable mass for my fv or finished veal stock. This base will make instant sauces out of anything.
post #5 of 5

We have a very similar process.  I don't want that funky albumen in my veal stock either. Gotta blanch the bones!  Amen.  Of course, if you don't roast the veal but do everything else the same below, it makes a mighty fine stock, too.

 

1.      Bring veal bones and trotters right below a boil.  Drain, dump, and rinse.  Reserve trotters (half for first run, half for the remi).

2.      Roast veal bones.  If I have time, I tend to go at a lower temperature for longer.  Meanwhile, heat up previously rendered fat from the last round of roast veal bones in the tilt skillet.

3.      Brown onions, carrots, and any miscellaneous product that isn’t garbage but you might not always have (mushroom stems, leek tops).  Celery can get bitter when reduced that far.  We don't use it for reduction stocks.  Toast tomato product.  Deglaze with water.  Scrape.

4.      Add parsley stem, frozen tomato skins/innards/scrap, bay leaves, black peppercorn, half trotters, roasted veal bones.  Drain whatever fat they’ve rendered and reserve for future use.

5.      Cover with water and bring to a slow bubble.  Skim.  Usually, I roll this overnight.

6.      Next morning, drain/strain into another stockpot or several.  Begin reducing.  Skim.

7.      Remi: add another round of tomato product and the other half of the blanched trotters to the tilt skillet.  Cover with water and bring to a slow bubble.  Skim.  Strain.

8.      Combine the two and reduce to desired thickness.  Strain.  Chill.

9.      Pull more veal bones from the freezer to start the process all over again tomorrow.

 

White Veal Variation: no carrots, no tomato paste, no roasting or browning anything.  We used this mainly to blanch and store sweetbreads.

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