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what gyuto

post #1 of 14
Thread Starter 
I'm very green when it comes to japanese knives. I've had a tojiro dp for a lil over a year now and am wanting to up grade. I work in a professional kitchen and do lots of knife work. I've been looking at few different knives and am open to suggestions. I wanna keep my budget around 130$ I would also like to get a new beginners wet stone if that makes since. So here are a few knives I'm looking at
Thanks for any input sorry if I posted in the wrong forum
Edited by Ballato - 2/18/15 at 6:27pm
post #2 of 14
The Tojiro DP is a solid performer in a professional environment. How do you maintain it so far, and what kind of improvement do you expect from another knife?
post #3 of 14
Thread Starter 
Yes it held up very well. I'm just looking to upgrade better edge retention sharper better steel I noticed it would get a lil weavy sometimes when I ran it on a steel at first I thought It was me until I read some reviews and they said the same thing. So i want just a all-around better knife . That's the other reason I was to learning how to sharpen it so its time to retire it to a house knife. I have a cheap skinny wet stone
post #4 of 14
Do I understand you use a honing steel with your Tojiro?? IMHO, a very poor habit. In general, a steeling rod will weaken the edge. It's only useful to realign the edges of soft steel blades and, even then, there are better options. VG-10 won't get out of true, so it doesn't need to be realigned. But it gets fatigued by steeling and its debris will form a wire edge, an accumulation of weak steel on the top of the edge that is apparently sharp but doesn't last.
By real sharpening that fatigued steel has to get removed. That's the way to get a sharp, lasting edge. Better reconsider your maintenance before submitting a new blade to your present praxis.
Edited by Benuser - 2/19/15 at 3:55pm
post #5 of 14
Thread Starter 
like I said I used it as a learning tool
post #6 of 14
Learning in this case would mean not to use a steel, and learn proper sharpening. Then the learning process would have had any sense.
I guess your Tojiro needs some good thinning and sharpening.
post #7 of 14
Thread Starter 
Ok thanks for not answering my question. No its plenty sharp and for the record I only used a steel a hand full of times before I had my stone. All I wanted was info on the knives I posted not to be told I don't deserve a new knife
post #8 of 14


Originally Posted by Benuser View Post

The Tojiro DP is a solid performer in a professional environment. How do you maintain it so far, and what kind of improvement do you expect from another knife?


Benuser already answered your question.  But since you thanked him so nicely I'll elaborate.  So long as you don't go too acute on the edge the Tojiro will hold a serviceable edge a long time.  If you want more initial sharpness go with the blue#2 choice and some decent stones, and maybe an Idahone.



post #9 of 14
Thread Starter 
Thank you. I just wanted a lil feed back on the knives I posted I apologize if I was rude
post #10 of 14
I'm telling you man put a 20* or more edge on your tojiro (40 inclusive?) and it will last forever. Makes me laugh about my old henckel 4 star.
post #11 of 14
Thread Starter 
It's still a very good knife I'm very pleased with it. I just wanted a new one lol I went with the minamoto and I'm gonna buy a new stone aswell.looking at the king 1000/6000 combo?
post #12 of 14

King is the cheapest option and a lot of us start there. The ones I upgraded to cost 2-3x more.  The luxury features I paid for in the more expensive stones: larger stones, slower dishing, faster cutting, splash and go.   Anyway the 1k/6k combo will get the job done well enough for double bevels.  It does cut slow;  a beginner could get frustrated and just grind away without checking their work.  Learn to check your work (look at the scratch pattern, use a marker, feel for burr with your fingers) and learn to remove the burr as much as possible by flipping sides and using less pressure.  Also don't forget to use the whole stone so it wears more evenly.

post #13 of 14
Thread Starter 
Thank you for the info. I've been using a marker method. Are there any other stones that would be a good option thanks for the help every one
post #14 of 14
When sharpening VG-10 I'm afraid you will need at least a 800-1200, a 3k-4k and a 6k-8k for abrading the burr.
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