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whetstones and my knifes.

post #1 of 10
Thread Starter 
Ok guys very simple , I have a global whetstons 1000 I also have the fine pink one, now that's not the problem for the money I've spent I don't feel there really great, the finish on the blade don't get me wrong looks nice feels nice , but doesn't preform brialliantly. I was also using guide rails just to make sure I get the edge , but just dissapoints.

I'm using global knives but will be moving away soon as I want to try the massamoto series so some advice on these also. I'm a professional chef and I'm also worried wether they can handle the environment?
post #2 of 10
Most Globals will need a severe thinning before they become appropriate. Without that you will apply far too much force with a resulting poor edge retention. Once thinned, they benefit from a serious microbevel.
That being said, sharpening a Global is not that simple. Expect a lot of plasticity in the stuff. Once you've deburred it, a new, fresh burr will appear on the other side -- after half an hour or so. No fun with these huge carbides.
The Western-handled Masamotos are known for both a very poor quality control and high prices. Better have a look at the Misonos with JCK, japanesechefsknife.com
Edited by Benuser - 6/8/15 at 2:54pm
post #3 of 10
Thread Starter 
Ok so any way I know what you mean about the global , advice on thinning knives as I've never heard of this process, I'll look through the misonos now as I'm also looking at there new whetstone the 6000/10000.
post #4 of 10

Your knife is thicker at the spine, so as you sharpen and move the edge up a little bit, the knife is getting thicker each time.  The solution is to remove a bit of metal at a very low angle like 2-5 degrees. 


Think of it like sharpening a pencil.  The edge is the graphite, everything else is wood.  If you want to sharpen a pencil, you need to remove some wood.  You can't just sharpen the tip for long or it will stop working.

post #5 of 10
Thread Starter 
Ouch 2-5 ,hmm best way to judge that, I can find 15 but 2-5 is very steep, and since you've now put me off massamoto , lol I can say I like the look of misonos, but I havnt seen many reviews here for them neither. Will they handle a demanding proffessional kitchen, and best range to be looking at, if you can't personally reccomend them, what brands do you I've heard a lot of people ranting and loving the Mac series can't say I rate them as I havnt had experiance with them , my experiance with knives are wustof, global, so both very typically commercial and they arnt the bestat holding an edge even after I've sharpened them and honed , or maybe I just get too used the new knife feel .
post #6 of 10
Originally Posted by pricey View Post

Ouch 2-5 ,hmm best way to judge that


Basically your knife is very close to flat on the stone but not quite. You're aiming to remove metal from the 1 cm or so behind the edge without scratching up the entire blade face.



See this video


The video right after it is a demo of thinning

post #7 of 10

2deg ideally for a midweight gyuto but you wouldn’t want to attempt this with much finer than a good 400 grit stone.



post #8 of 10
For big thinning operations I like automotive sandpaper on linen, starting at P150. I use soft wood or hard rubber, it gives a nice slightly convexed result -- a really hard backing may cause facetting. Edge trailing only.
post #9 of 10
Ben - do you rub the sanding block on a stationary knife, or rub the knife on a stationary sanding block? Or does it matter at all? What's the finest grit you use in wet-dry sandpaper? Also, you do this wet... Right?
post #10 of 10
I do it on a stationary block. I'm used to control the knife with stone sharpening. I do it dry and keep pressure low. Highest grid will be some 320 or so with carbons, they get a patina anyway. For the stainless I don't remember exactly, 600 perhaps.
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