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Looking for a good "first" knife. - Page 3

post #61 of 74
In your case, with a brand new, very thin blade, it's far from complicated. Keep 15 degree on the left until you find a burr -- that will be almost immediate, after one pass. On the other side, remove that same burr at 10 degree until you've raised a new burr on the other side. Just as simple as that. After that it's just about burr removal. The fundamentals have been set. Only edge trailing strokes -- stropping -- and a few deburring strokes along the edge, with your initial stone. Than, stropping and deburring with the finest one.
With a new knife like yours you can't go wrong if you know what you're doing. It's about just a few strokes. If you feel inconfortable about it let me know.
Edited by Benuser - 6/23/15 at 5:00pm
post #62 of 74

Well, I'm going to run right home and try it. LOL  No, actually, have to wait for the new stone.  But I can practice on my German steel to get a feel for it.  Thank you once again Benuser.

post #63 of 74

Don't get discouraged if it takes awhile on a german knife.  The angle is more obtuse, so if you go at the angles mentioned here, you'll basically be thinning for a while.  Also the stainless steel used there is more abrasion resistant, there is more metal remove on thicker knives.  Overall it will just take longer.


Probably you want to sharpen that one at wider angles.  Before you sharpen each knife, you should stop and think, don't just grind away :D

post #64 of 74
And if those German friends have been neglected for some time, it may take a while, to say the least. Better start with a correctly sharpened knife to experience the basics: raising a burr, chasing it, and getting rid of it.
post #65 of 74
Thread Starter 
Huh, I didn't expect this when I got back. But hey, this certainly works out in my favor.

First of, my new knife is on its way. Funnily enough, it's also the Hiromoto AUS10 240mm Gyuto. I decided to stick with a stainless steel blade for now but I did buy a cheap $7 carbon knife, which I will be using at home and practicing with in terms of usage, maintenance, and sharpening before I go buy a more expensive one.

Second, on the matter of my new knife not arriving with a workable edge, will I have to stick with the initial angles it comes with when I finish it off, or will it be alright to turn both sides into a 15 degree bevel?
post #66 of 74
What $7 knife did you get?
post #67 of 74
Thread Starter 
It's an 8" chefs knife but it doesn't have a name anywhere on it. Just bought it at a yard sale in the neighborhood yesterday. I saw it and thought why not. It's a bit rusty but the owner said she never really used it for long before putting it away. Like I said though, it'll just be for home use so I can get used to using one before I go out and buy a more expensive one. Who knows, it might even replace the one I bring to work if I get it into good working condition.
post #68 of 74

wusthof you will not be dissapointed 

post #69 of 74
Thread Starter 
Originally Posted by yes chef View Post

wusthof you will not be dissapointed 
For my new knife you mean? I've actually already bought a new knife, just waiting for it to arrive.
post #70 of 74
What's even more complicated is properly USING your knife in a kitchen.

"And those who were seen dancing were thought to be insane by those who could not hear the music."

I'm not sayin', I'm just sayin'.


"And those who were seen dancing were thought to be insane by those who could not hear the music."

I'm not sayin', I'm just sayin'.

post #71 of 74

Yes, you can do both sides at 15deg.




post #72 of 74
I've had magnificent results with old no-name carbon knives like that. To the point that I almost regret the majority of my knife buys and enough to keep me from spending on "real" Japanese knives. If all you want to do is cut for cooking it maybe sufficient. For anything but home use the only potential problem may be wood handles.
post #73 of 74

So my apologies to LeiCiel for co-opting the thread, I did steer things a little off topic.  


My Henckels set gets regular runs through the Chef's Choice 3 stage and almost daily steel use (which I now know is bad LOL)  I've periodically used an oil stone so I think I have a little bit of a handle on the basics.  I also know these knives are equally beveled so I don't need to deal with the asymmetric geometry.  But it will be good to practice the technique on the waterstones on these knives which I think will be easier to learn on. 


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post #74 of 74

This is probably going to annoy more than a few people BUT .....

after many years I now mainly use ;

1. 1 * vic nox pastry knife... its super useful , even for pastry !

2. 1 * "nice" paring knife, about $60 is my limit ,,,,,,

3. 1 * "nice" filiting knife, again about $60 .... ( I take pride in my edge, not the badge)

4. A BOX OF KIWI BRAND mini cleavers. They are from Thailand,  cost about $AU4 each! Super light, laser sharp and never feels like i`m working the knife while i`m working with the knife. I can "sharpen" it on just about anything as its metal is so thin, and I DON'T CARE AT ALL IF SOME LAMER STARTS USING IT, I just grab a fresh one from the box if it gets ruined. I get mine from Chinese supermarkets here in AU. The down side is the handle is a bit short but if you add up all the physical discomfort of a long shift this really is not noticeable. Also, as I move around my kitchen sections ALOT I can just leave a knife at each section, never have to run back to my previous board to get my expensive hunk of steel before some lunk-head uses it to open a tin of olives (you know who you are!).

I`m known in the places I have worked for my fast and accurate knife work, something I`m proud of. After many years I realized it wasn't the knife, it was me that was doing the good work.

My wife on the other hand ONLY uses expensive Japanese knives she gets serviced once a year in Japan. I don't think we will ever see eye to eye on this matter....

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