Bob Kramer's carbon steel knives are made in Japan by Miyabi, a Japanese cutlery company (now owned by Zwilling Henckels) that makes very good quality products. Bob Kramer worked with Miyabi to set up production protocols and the result is a quality product. The blade steel is 52100 steel, the same as Kramer custom knives.
That being said, while I accept the quality of the product, I have to ask whether this would be the best bang for your buck. The first issue is how do you intend to sharpen the knife?
Keep in mind that honing is not sharpening. What honing does is to re-align the (microscopic) edge of the knife. For honing, as Rick said above, a 12 inch fine Idahone is as good as you will ever need - and a lot cheaper than a Kramer hone.
What it does not do to any significant degree is remove metal. That's the sharpening process. And for that, you will need good stones.
My own reaction is that a lot of the peripheral gear offered under the Kramer name is just much more expensive than equivalent gear.
You can buy a hone, or good quality stones cheaper and still get the sharpening job done just as well.
Another issue is how do you hold the knife? Do you hold the handle in a "racket-style" full grip? Or do you use a pinch grip? There's just a small degree of curvature on the handle - and what you need to do is to try a cut both in a pinch grip and a racket-style grip.
See how well you can do either when doing a "guillotine and glide" style of push-cut (that's where you start off doing a downward chop and finish with a forward thrust - that way, you get a very clean and full cut through your food on one stroke).
Is 8 inches the appropriate length? Many chefs now gravitate towards 10 inches. And the 10 inch version is $349.95, compared to the $299.95 for the 8 inch version. Not that much difference in cost, for quite a bit more functionality. And with a pinch-grip, a 10 inch blade doesn't feel all that much bigger.
As for care, the proper method is to IMMEDIATELY wash and dry-wipe. Wiping down with a wet towel and then with a dry towel doesn't quite cut it. Not to mention food safety.
I'm not familiar with hands-on experience with 52100 steel, but my inclination is to force a thorough surface patina of Fe3O4 (that's a form of iron oxide, which is grey to blue to black in color). That patina acts as a tight oxidized surface on the surface of the blade and inhibits the formation of another form of iron oxide (Fe2O3), which is reddish and orange in coloration, and goes by the generic name of "rust".
As for your budget, think through whether you have not only stones for sharpening, but also a good cutting board. This is the type of knife which really deserves a good quality end grain hardwood cutting board.
You said you are familiar with Henckels and Wusthof. Are you familiar with any other knives, such as better quality Japanese knives? Would you consider one? Would you consider trying one?
Hope that gives you food for thought.
Edited by Galley Swiller - 11/12/15 at 1:20pm