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Knife Help - Page 2

post #31 of 47

Yes, to give the details:


Get a simple protractor at any art supply and mark off some triangle on poster board stock.  Like 10, 12 15, 18, 20 degrees, I just have a 14 from which I visually extrapolate all other angles.  Cut them out with an exacto.  After coating with superglue, cleaning up a bit with sandpaper, you can then place them right on your stone and wedge the knife up against with the edge resting on the stone, and as you move the wedge along the knife's length you see just how much the spine needs to be raised at any given point from heel to tip.


It's no trouble answering questions when I have the time, and I often do, but l brouched this subject first time after awaking late night and just couldn't think.





post #32 of 47
Thread Starter 
JustJim: I actually had that in my cart at one point. Since I have some knives to play with, I thought I might buy the gear separately.

Rick: Okay, I think I've got it. I still have a protractor or two hanging around the house.

BTW, is the card stock in that kit the same concept as Rick was suggesting (with a 15 deg angle as opposed to 14).

post #33 of 47
There's no appreciable difference between 15 and 14 degrees if you're talking about freehanding.

You can do cardstock like that. You can even make a DIY 3-D wedge that is better self supported.
post #34 of 47

There are really only 3 angles you need to worry about


1) Very low, almost flat for thinning

2) Following the existing bevel

3) Setting your own bevel


You don't need a protractor for ANY of these

post #35 of 47

What is a laser knife? I new at this, so bear with me.

post #36 of 47
A thin knife. Typically agreed any knife 2mm or thinner at the spine is a laser but of course grinds vary
post #37 of 47

You got me interested in a laser knife, could I get a list of companies who sells them, it doesn't matter whether its a chefs ect... I just want to take a look at some. thank you.

post #38 of 47

In general, they are light, they are thin, they don't have much blade height.


There are others I'm sure I forgot about since I don't shop for these much.   I have a goko swedish stainless I use sometimes because it is my only stainless and a konosuke white steel that I rarely use.  I prefer more weight and height.

post #39 of 47

A few stainless ones - Suisin Inox Honyaki and Ikkanshi Tadatsuna Inox

post #40 of 47

They are really thin for a Gyuto, almost like my fillet knife.

post #41 of 47
Lasers tend to be more symmetric than others, and have poorer food release.
post #42 of 47

you mean that the food tends to stick to the blade?

post #43 of 47
Yes, so I do.
post #44 of 47

Well, that can be a problem, lol!

post #45 of 47
I'd indeed think so
post #46 of 47

Stickage is also ameliorated by speed, something lasers are known for:




....but if you don't think you'd typically feel comfortable at that velocity, well I suppose you would want to consider another strategy for addressing stickage.

post #47 of 47
I guess you mean sticking can be attenuated by technique. Now, that's very true. Not only with lasers. And please put a micro-bevel on the edge if that's the way you want your edge to deal with the board.
Edited by Benuser - 11/28/16 at 5:24pm
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