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Mercer MX3 line

post #1 of 10
Thread Starter 

  Hey yall, I was wondering if anyone had the dirt on this line of knifes, specifically the Mercer M16120 MX3 9 1/2" Gyuto It struck my eye because I use the genesis models which I have found to be great bang for the buck and low maintenance. I'd like to get a knife with this profile that I wouldn't have to worry too much about, mostly the steel itself. The only detail I have is that its VG-10 cored with laminated stainless steel (X50 Cr Mo V15 Perhaps?). Thanks in advance :thumb:





post #2 of 10

Wish there was a choil shot...wondering what it brings that makes it cost $40+ bucks more than the Tojiro DP (hopefully better fit and finish). 


No first nor secondhand experience here, but with these clad construction knives the laminated outer steel is usually something MUCH softer than the cutting edge steel (think SUS420J2 or other non 'high carbon' steels). 


Its price point puts it at a little higher than entry level J-knives.

post #3 of 10
Thread Starter 

An aside question about clad knifes, if you were to look at the blade cut in half would it look like Ex.1 or Ex.2

#mspaint skillzzz lol

post #4 of 10

Example 2. looking along the thickness of the blade from the choil. The point is to have the harder core steel exposed as your cutting edge. The cladding is super soft - won't really hold an edge. With no thinning of the knife over a long long period of time Ex. 1 might theoretically happen, but not likely, and the fix is easy :)

post #5 of 10
Thread Starter 

Thanks I thought that'd be the case. I haven't studied much of multi steel blade construction for ages, since like when I wanted a katana as a teenager lol. So the Tojiro DP is a good Japanese starter knife then? I don't have the money to capitalize on that sale with JPS unfortunately, and will probably only be able to make a purchase in a month or so with $100 - $200 dollars.

post #6 of 10

The JNS sale knocks a lot of good things into the 150-170ish range :3


From a performance standpoint I quite like the Tojiro DP and probably would have been happy with that knife if I didn't have expendable income/super knife interests :D . It's not too thick not too thin. Came with one of the most usable edges of most my knives with a bevel that was easy to follow for a newish sharpener. Some people have trouble properly deburring VG10 or flat out just don't like how it feels to sharpen.

The big knocks against it are a blocky handle (haven't really noticed that even though I have small girl hands) and poor fit and finish, with some knives having gaps between the handle and bolster, uneven fitting scales, etc. Mine had grind marks on the blade but no handle issues, and nothing that affects comfort or performance.


There are other good starter knives including the Fujiwara FKM, Kanetsugu Pro-M, Misono Moly, and Jon's Gesshin stainless (somewhat of a price tier up but pretty guaranteed good fit and finish and no other problems with the blade). The Tojiro just happens to be the one I have :)


Edit: pics

I have the 210mm

Grind marks that I tried to even out but it made it worse :confused:


With a lot of these entry level knives, make sure you file or sand down the spine where the pinch grip is and maybe also the choil where the middle finger rubs against.

Edited by foody518 - 2/2/16 at 7:31am
post #7 of 10

You can reshape the handle too it just takes a little patience.  I reshaped the handle, rounded the spine and choil on my 270mm DP suji.  

post #8 of 10
Thread Starter 

I almost always use a pinch grip so handle shape generally doesn't bother me, although that may be because my handles are santoprene and not wood. I haven't had much experience with using wooden handles at all much less for a shift involving mostly prep. Are there advantages to them besides aesthetics :confused:? Oh and thanks @foody518 and @Mike9.

Edited by NewOrleansCookJ - 2/2/16 at 12:26pm
post #9 of 10

It depends on the wood.  The stock ho wood handles you see on many Japanese wa handles are very light.    Which is good because less fatigue and it's blade heavy which promotes a certain type of push cutting.  Other woods could make it heavier.

post #10 of 10

Western handled J-knives are commonly Pakkawood/Stamina wood (some sort of particle wood impregnated with resin) and likely heavier than santoprene. I don't have a 240mm western-handled J-knife, but the 210 Tojiro is handle heavy and my 270 balances almost right at the pinch point. I'd expect a 240 to be rather close to pinch grip as well. Longest I've used the Tojiro was an hour straight cutting up baked chicken breasts and that was fine, but it prompted me to ease the sharp spine (owww)


Wa-gyutos of most any length are generally blade heavy but tend to feel exceedingly light.

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