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The ultimate budget minded n00bs guide. All contributions welcome! - Page 2

post #31 of 46


The dragon is why I got the knife :P


Have a plan for stone flattening by a few months down the line. Coarse sandpaper or drywall screen on a flat surface, or a diamond plate. Give yourself some time to build the angle holding and sharpening stroke muscle memory for a larger+ longer knife. Use the sharpie trick! 

post #32 of 46

Shapton stones don't dish so fast.  And if you try to use the whole length of the stone it should wear evenly and you can go even longer without flattening.  They are splash and go, do not permasoak or them.    When you air dry, don't leave them in direct sunlight.


FYI I just got an email  15% off Korin knives summer sale

post #33 of 46
Thread Starter 
Yeah, I saw the sale but I had to operate in my window and y'all know how easy it is to get antsy. I'm cool with a flattener- recommendations? Can it be a cheap one so long as it's flat? Also, I'm going to pick up a coarse stone to try and mess with a cheap old 50/50 blade, can I go cheap with that too? Are leather strops pointless with jknives? It seems like all work is done on stones- no steeling or stropping- do people strop on their finest stone between sharpenings- I'm not keen on the idea of steeling as it is.
post #34 of 46
Flatteners- diamond plates cost the most but won't go out of true. You can get coarse "stone fixers" for cheaper but they themselves will get dished over time. Sandpaper or drywall screen backed on a hard flat surface cost less up front (and for a while afterwards).

You can go with King or like a Beston 500 as a cheap-ish coarse option.

Some folks strop loaded or unloaded but it's usually secondary concern to just making sure you get a good edge off the stones. I do touch ups, either very quick sharpening or just edge trailing strokes on my fine stones.
post #35 of 46
Thread Starter 
Got my knives in today! I got the Misono I mentioned before and a Tojiro to compare it to. Tojiro wasn't scary sharp out of box, but was more than sharp enough to have a blast cooking with. No oxidation of any kind, just cutting and wiping is great. I've got to learn how to take advantage of that blade real estate though, it's much larger than I'm used to so I find myself going much slower.

The Misono was absolutely scary sharp with the initial sharpening. When people say the blade is reactive, they are understating the facts. This thing oxidizes the moment it touches a cucumber. I took knife out, cleaned and dried it, and sliced a cucumber for about 15 slices or about 2 minutes and it shows spots. I expected oxidation and was very quick to dry but not quick enough. I can't tell the color of the spots though as they're too small, which leads me to some questions:
1) Can you help me identify if this is rust or patina?
2) Should I remove it?
3) Should I force patina?

Thanks for the advice so far, I'm very happy with the knives- if I can get past the patina thing I'll be at full speed, thanks!

To be clear, after I cut the cuke I rinsed and dried the blade immediately- no sitting on board or anything. You may see some oil I put on the blade in the pics, I did this in hope of 'pausing' whatever reactions were going on until I got some more information.
post #36 of 46

If it's trending red or orange it's most likely rust. If it's more gray or colorful (excepting red/orange spots) it should be patina.


Congratulations on your new knife purchases! You'll get past most OOTB sharpness with freehanding after some practice on your skills :)

post #37 of 46
Don't like like rust just patina. I say cook some steaks. Slice, hot water , dry, repeat. That will get your patina started right quick. Chicken too. Plantain peels work If you have to force it use warm vinegar
post #38 of 46

There's an example of a more veggie patina. Lots of gray, a little bit of color through it but no blatant orange or red spots like how rust on other metal objects looks. Hope this helps
post #39 of 46
A patina is a further oxidation of rust. In the beginning there's rust, but very superficially. It will colour your towels orange. If you rinse with very hot it will turn into a patina, grey, mauve, gold, blue, whatever.
You may speed up the process by forcing a patina with mustard, lemon, vinegar, hot coffee.
Another solution is to wait a bit before cleaning the faces. But clean the very edge immediately or the oxidation will dull it. Cut in a Cork. Have fun.
post #40 of 46

Limited experience here but mango works very fast and leaves a nice gun metal blue.

post #41 of 46
Thread Starter 
Ok guys- happy camper update time. I read a lot about patina and what not, and after looking at a lot of pics the natural patinas are by far the prettiest so I decided to go that route. I cut a bunch of meat, onions, and everything I could find and let it sit out longer than I initially thought was ok to allow the patina to develop. Initially I was freaked out because those spots I posted pics of last time just didn't look like what I thought patina was supposed to look like. I expected the knifes finish to dull more evenly, not spot up like acne the way it did. Here's some pics of the Misono's patina.

Strangely, there is some orange/brown patina- I don't think it's rust at all, as it is thin and totally smooth, but it's visible in the pics- let me know if I'm wrong.

P.S. - I love petting the knife after its dried off after use, it's so smooth. Am I crazy?

post #42 of 46
When it remains when wiping off, and feels smooth, it's a patina, no rust.
post #43 of 46

I liked Tojiro.    May not be as bling as some but solid value. Shun is.. of course.. reliably good.  240MM... that's BIG.... are you parting out Bison?  I found that a knife above 10" is too much even if a prep at a volume house where I'm cutting most of the day.   For HOME.... I don't use my 10" much....Got 7" and 8 1/2 that do fine.


MOST well respected Japanese brands are damn good...assuming you learn to SHARPEN.. I saw a few relatively costly knives that were NOT well sharpened.   I had knives that were more like $25-35 and damn sharp..  In a Pro kitchen...... I'd be VERY careful to have a flashy ,big $ knife.. as some busboy or temp can walk off with it,.   At home.. that's no matter but at home.... you ain't using any knife for 5-7 hrs in a row.   I worked for a Chef who had a 12" Forged Forschner.. LOOKED great.. HEAVY as hell and the blade was so thick it took forever to sharpen. My 10" thin blade (and cheaper) Forschner.. could get REAL sharp and it would not wear out your arm in 15 minutes.  My 10" is NICE in a kitchen where I have QUANTITY to cut up.. but...I  have become FOND of my razor sharp,light,quick 7" knives. At HOME.. those handle the job. BIG difference in cutting up ONE bell pepper.. vs a whole CASE of them.

post #44 of 46

240-270mm feels good to me as a petite, small hands home user. I like that size for julienne and for cutting melon fruits, particularly watermelon. As for weight/heft, one of my 240s weighs around 5 ounces. Not at all an issue for fatigue. Either those or a 220x105mm Chinese cleaver is my usual default knife. 
Smaller can be used at home sure, but not experiencing problems handling the longer knives either...

post #45 of 46

Ehh back to the topic, I don't see any rust in that picture.   When you're done cutting rinse wtih HOT water and dry it off with a kitchen towel.    Baking soda would help with reactivity too

post #46 of 46
Originally Posted by MillionsKnives View Post


    Baking soda would help with reactivity too


Rubbed in with a halved spud to complete the ritual and which you can then cavalierly toss, or trim and save if you are as obsessive about waste as myself.

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