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Knife handle

1K views 13 replies 6 participants last post by  foody518 
#1 ·
Does anyone know where I can go to get a custom handle made? I'm not taking color or style, but length. When I hold the knife I have my index finger on the top of the blade because I have better control from there. However, after a  short while, a blister starts to form. I was thinking that if I could get a handle that extended about 1/2 an inch along just the top of the blade it was help with this. Any help is appreciated. Thanks
 
#4 ·
Does anyone know where I can go to get a custom handle made? I'm not taking color or style, but length. When I hold the knife I have my index finger on the top of the blade because I have better control from there. However, after a short while, a blister starts to form. I was thinking that if I could get a handle that extended about 1/2 an inch along just the top of the blade it was help with this. Any help is appreciated. Thanks
where are you located? doing something like this long distance could be a pain. two issues 1) removing the old handle without damaging the blade 2)what type of tang and how is handle mounted. send me a PM and i will steer you in the right direction.

scott
 
#6 ·
#7 ·
@Scott Livesey I'm not the thread starter but this is why I've got a set of files and also some sandpaper :)

Not every knife I've gotten has had an eased spine and choil. Some of my previous buys this year have, but I'm playing with this one right now - seeing how I feel about a deliberately left side convex, right side flat ground knife (I'm a lefty). And the fit and finish wasn't quite there this time.
 
#11 ·
@Scott Livesey I'm not the thread starter but this is why I've got a set of files and also some sandpaper :)

Not every knife I've gotten has had an eased spine and choil. Some of my previous buys this year have, but I'm playing with this one right now - seeing how I feel about a deliberately left side convex, right side flat ground knife (I'm a lefty). And the fit and finish wasn't quite there this time.
a conventional file might scratch the knives I work with, but won't remove any metal. Norton makes abrasive files and pocket stones that work well on jobs like this. you can get them made of India or Crystolon.

dealing with fit and finish defects must be one of the joys of having the knife maker 8000 miles away. an eased/rounded spine and choil are things that should be done before heat treat.

scott
 
#13 ·
Sandpaper costs like $3 and it's flexible so you can actually round the corner. Use it like an old timey shoe shining cloth. It doesn't matter the hardness of your knives.
I understand, that is how I shape handles. My point is if I spend over $100 on a knife, a spine that is not rounded or a choil with a burr or a rough spot on the handle or a poorly finished edge are unacceptable. If I found those defects on a knife from a big box store, I would take it back. Defects like these show poor quality assurance and a lack of pride and concern for the customer by the knife making company.
 
#14 ·
I've got a set of diamond files that do the trick acceptably for 60 HRC and up knives. Don't mind doing the things that I can fix up pretty easily. Grind, I'd rather not spend so much time fixing, steel is already determined, and HT I can't fix. Theoretically, if there was a cost tradeoff of saving $5-10 bucks of labor on rounding the spine and choil, I'd probably take that tradeoff
 
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