I don't think you deal with it at all. I don't want this to sound like psycho-babble, but you know what quality you have produced. If your food is good, you know you have done well. If your food is off, than you know that you haven't done what is expected. I don't think anybody, in any profession, needs to be told that they are doing well (or not). As a professional, you should know before anybody tells you. Sure, it is nice to see a glowing review and hear compliments, but they don't necessarily mean much. Let's face it, how many times have you thrown something together, it wasn't very good, but you still heard how wonderful it was? The same can go the other way.
The only implication with somebody that is not "in the know" sharing their thoughts with the world, via a newspaper review, is that many readers may take that review at face value. Again, not to keep using comparisons, but how how many times have you read or heard a bad movie review and then liked the movie?
I am sure I would be upset with a nasty review, but you know... "True character is revealed when you come face to face with adversity." Take this adversity and use it as a strengthening tool.
You could probably call or write the reviewer to contest some of their comments or even offer to cook another meal, but the article has been written. Again, embrace the criticism as mechanism for making yourself an even better cook. All the best!