I rang in 1998 with Chef Michael Kornick and the management and culinary staff at Marche, Red Light and Vivo restaurants. Michael tasted all of us out on the tete de cuvee champagnes from the top houses - Moet, Clicquot, Krug, Roederer, Billecarte-Salmon, etc. The Dom Perignon 1990 was a beautiful expression of the vintage and the vintner's art.
For special occasions, I love the Billecarte-Salmon NV champagnes, or good old Veuve Clicquot NV.