Which would better compliment my set - a 240mm Gyuto, or a Suji?

3243 Views 21 Replies 5 Participants Last post by rick alan, Nov 18, 2017

Jay MacCallum

Discussion Starter · Nov 14, 2017

I'm a pretty serious home cook, and love my kitchen equipment (Sous vide, Vitamix, Baratza Burr Grinder, Stand Mixer, you name it I got it). The first real knife I ever owned was a Moritaka 170mm Santoku, gifted to me by my mother for Christmas about 7 years ago. About 3 years ago, I bought a Wusthof Ikon set (I know, I know, I could have hand selected a better set for less) which I was comfortable with as I grew up in a household with mostly German Style knives.

I want to add a knife or two to my set, and I was looking for some advise on which style I would likely get more use from given my current selection. As it stands, I have an 8" Ikon Chef Knife, 5.5" Ikon Utility Knife, Ikon paring knife, Ikon Bread knife (I actually love that thing), the 170mm Moritaka, and a 5.5" Zwilling Henkel Pro Boning Knife. Given my Moritaka, I am no stranger to caring for carbon steel, and the small amount of additional care doesn't bother me.

I was thinking that the best choice for my next knife would be a 240mm Gyuto. Yes, it's another general purpose chef knife, but it has the additional length over my Ikon, yet will be significantly more nimble (although much more delicate). However, I have been looking for a long slicing/carving knife, so a Suji has tempted me a bit.

I'm currently thinking of going with a Misono Swedish 240mm - I can get it for $190 CAD which seems to be quite a steal. Apart from that, the Misono UX10 ($200 US), and Yoshihiro VG10 hammered damascus (160 US) have also caught my eye. I love how effortlessly my Moritaka slices through onions and vegetables, but I'm not sure if that's due to the carbon, or due to the style of knife.

Any input/recommendations would help a lot

Thanks!

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rick alan

· #21 · Nov 16, 2017

Insufficient scientific data? Well I just go by my own experience with poly, and the many chefs I hear say, "Damn [expletives deleted] poly-boards we have to use at work!" There is an absolute glut of pulp peer review literature out there, like studies to show that parents of children with autism suffer more stress than the average. So I am actually opposed to initiating any further research on cutting boards. A cherry or Japanese Ho/magnolia wood edge-grain board is a good cheap alternative to end-grain if you don't want to spend the money and still want wood.

Yes I do admit I am unabashed in my promotion of BoardSmith. Dave essentially retired and passed the business onto a very competent outfit, and he is still a rockstar here.

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rick alan

· #22 · Nov 18, 2017 (Edited)

Jay MacCallum said:
In fact, the only blades in the price range in A2/AS are Kohetsu A2, Harukaze AS and A2, and Tanaka Kurouchi A2 from what I can see.

Jay I hope you're still with us, I missed this comment. I'd shy away from the Kohetsu, known to have serious construction issues, don't know anything of the Harukaze, the Tanaka is considered a great value, but I don't recall if it is especially reactive or not.

It was mentioned so I will elaborate: Some people make a big deal about handles, but really there is very little difference in "conventional" western and Japanese handles so far as ordinary healthy hands are concerned. I do have a slight preference for handles where the bottom drops down in towards the back end. Far more important is a relaxed pinch-grip, and that primarily entails realizing that you 2 smaller fingers should be your power generators. They sit farthest toward the back end of the handle and they have most the leverage. All of your other fingers should be muchly just in for the ride.

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